Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Year: 1994

Colour: Factory Black

Location: South Perth

Reg & Expiry: Expires 3/11/2013.

VIN: RNN14-______ [TBC]

Kilometres: 144XXX km

Price: $7500

Contact: Scott - 0423 351 508 scottrichards _ at _ hotmail _ dot _ com

Details: So the time has come to sell my pulsar. I bought it sometime early September 2010 with a couple of modifications (folder of his receipts will come with the car). It had a couple of dents and a cracked bonnet, supposedly from some drunken buffoon jumping on it after it was left parked in Northbridge on a Saturday night, but I loved the car none the less.

Since then, I've been slowly modifying it over the years, and observing the differences the modifications made to my track times. It's been taken out on Barbagallo probably 5 or 6 times over the years. Besides that, it's been nanny-driven around the streets most of it's life with me.

About 4 months ago, I discovered that the centre differential in my car was not working properly, and only recently have I put in a new gearbox (supposedly from a car with about 80k on the clock, but no documentation to confirm.) It got tuned last Friday, with a safe tune result of 162kw atw at 1bar of boost.

Anyway, here's the list of modification. Pretty sure I have receipts for all of these items, but if there's any you'd like in particular, please feel free to ask. All of the receipts (as well as the previous owners receipts) will be passed on to the new owner.

Brakes:

Renault Clio Rotors

Evo 3 calipers (rebuilt by Perth Brake Parts)

Project mu pads (recently fitted with new HC+ pads)

HEL braided lines

Suspension/Drivetrain:

BC Coilovers (BR Series)

Cusco front strut brace

Cusco rear strut brace

Cusco underbody brace version 2

Whilteline rear swaybar

Whilteline castor kit

Custom Modena Front Diff (aaaawwwwww yeeeeeaaahh!)

Recently replaced gearbox (now with new passenger side oil seal and mystery centre diff!)

Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil

Engine:

Full 3" exhaust

K&N air filter

Heavy Duty Clutch (Checked when replaced the gearbox. Plenty of meat left on it)

Oil cooler/filter relocation kit (oil cooler located in drivers-side brake duct area)

Bosch 984 fuel pump

New gaskets on turbo

PowerFC ECU

Braided oil and water lines for turbo

CES dump pipe

Spitfire leads

New dizzy

Oil catch can

Z32 AFM

New Sard 650cc injectors

Profec B Spec 2 Boost controller

Wheels/Tyres:

Rav's Engineering Vorks - 15" x 6.5" +40 offset powdercoated in black

Advan Neova AD08 205/50's

Cons:

Cracked bonnet, couple of dents here and there.

No A/C

Driver's side window needs a little bit of a helping hand to get to the top

Reason for sale:

Bored with life in Perth and moving to Vancouver.

I've added a couple of pics that I've taken over the years. I'll grab some of the engine bay when I can, but basically it looks like a normal engine bay...but with no A/C...and an oil catch can installed.

post-39236-0-36340300-1378861144_thumb.jpg

post-39236-0-85919500-1378861151_thumb.jpg

post-39236-0-88401900-1378861162_thumb.jpg

post-39236-0-63050600-1378861205_thumb.jpg

post-39236-0-34630100-1378861217_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431676-wa-94-black-pulsar-gti-r/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...