Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Car was originally a N/A Series 2 R34 (auto)

I was curious if anyone knew what temperature the warning lights for AT Oil Temp, and Engine Oil Temp actually illuminate at? I can't seem to find this information anywhere, even in the workshop manual. The workshop manual does mention the light comes on but only when the sensor detects variables which are everything except actual temperature.

Just curious before I bought gauges (which I will anyway) to see whether these can be relied on as actual warning lights, in a "It is time to immediately back off" kind of warning.

My google fu is clearly feeble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431991-temp-warning-lights-in-r34-na/
Share on other sites

I understand this, my car actually has it labelled as "AT Oil Temp" (thats the actual text of the lamp that lights up)

I also have an oil idiot light, as well as an oil pressure guage in the standard cluster with a LED on it from factory.. which lights up when oil pressure = 0 or extremly low - But there's also another one with the typical oil icon which doesnt appear when the pressure LED is on, but does appear when you turn the car on prior to starting it, etc.

Was mainly looking at the AT Oil Temp one if anyone knew, as the oil pressure gauge does a laymans job of telling me if the oil is hot or not just by going on how much pressure is there when it warms up... (20w-60 oil) and well water temp has the little needle which doesn't move until something is seriously wrong. Not overly worried about oil overheating as everything I've read seems to indicate oil and coolant tend to go into the 'too high' region at the same time.

I'd be getting proper gauges before any kind of track day, but curious through spirited driving through the hills what the AT oil temp actually is, because cooking a laptop to the transmission ECU to read it is rather cumbersome, and the AT Temp is apparently the first thing to get worried about. Was wondering mainly if the light comes on at 80C where it isn't 'that bad' a problem or whether it comes on at 150C or something in which case it's too late.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Congrats on the career change!  I did something similar at the start of the year too, left IT / corporate after nearly 2 decades. Soooo when's the motor coming out for the spark plug change?
    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
×
×
  • Create New...