Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so ive purchased myself a twinscroll dual wastegate highmount 6boost mani for my r34

I seem to have come to a slight impass whilst test fitting before taking to the ceramic coaters.

my problem is that it hits on one of the hard lines going to my ac compressor. just want to know if anyone can recommend a shop in Sydney that could make up a custom line for me if its possible

or if someone else has had this issue and found another solution, its the one on the top at the back of it that goes up through the firewall.

ive already disconnected it and it clears everything else, just going to get some heat sleeving and shielding for surrounding cables and lines.

note that I did use the search function but could not find anything of help

thanks

i had the same issue with mine, kyle(6boost) offered to fix it for free, but i ended up just getting an a/c line modded,

just go to your local a/c or radiator place. thats where i got mine done

or send it back to be fixed

I got it off one of his suppliers who told me to just bend it out of the way. I've already dropped it off to be ceramic coated so definitely not sending it back. Might try bend it n if it snaps or kinks I'll just go check out an ac place.

owenliberts what did they do to mod it and how much was it roughly?

This also happened to some one who uses the same mechanic as me, think his name is Jamie and he is a member on here. R34 GTR "HALUCN8" apparently no one has given Kyle at 6boost about it. Jamie apparently spoke to Kyle about it at Jamboree

This also happened to some one who uses the same mechanic as me, think his name is Jamie and he is a member on here. R34 GTR "HALUCN8" apparently no one has given Kyle at 6boost about it. Jamie apparently spoke to Kyle about it at Jamboree

I told kyle, but was told, ghats the right manifold.

as I said, knock it out of the way, works ok so far.

also have ceramic coating.

and some heat wrap.

Luke GTR what did u use to give it some persuasion, a small pipe bender would be good, don't wanna buy one just for this though

lump of wood and a hammer helped.

also, a pry bar.

look on ebay for heat proof tape/pipe coverings.

can take some punishment.

should help prolong the life of the ac.

ok cool thanks guys. going to give the old hammer and timber trick a go when I get the mani back tomorrow hopefully, failing that a visit to an ac shop.

and yeah ive ordered some of that flame proof shielding stuff to wrap my pipes and cables

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...