Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So thinking of getting an Apexi power fc with the controller for my 33 to replace the stock ecu. Would the AFM need replacing? Also does anyone know what pricing I would looking at for one? And wlany suggestions where to purchase it from etc? Any other information I need to know to do this would also be helpful just trying to plan ahead so I know what im getting myself into.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/
Share on other sites

You need AFM's with the power FC. Unless you get the D-Jetro version which takes out the AFM's. thats what I'm lead to believe

Ok so what you'd use stock AFM or swap for a Z32 AFM?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031375
Share on other sites

I've written it somewhere else before, but I'm not a big fan of Nistune. If your very price orientated then I guess they are a good option. I think I stand alone ecu is the best way to go. Power FC, vipec/link or haltech..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031407
Share on other sites

I've written it somewhere else before, but I'm not a big fan of Nistune. If your very price orientated then I guess they are a good option. I think I stand alone ecu is the best way to go. Power FC, vipec/link or haltech..

Either better then the other or all bout the same just different badge? This is something im contemplating doing late next year so just collect as much info as possibke now to decide what way im going.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031414
Share on other sites

it all really depends on exactly what you will want from it. future mods, tuning adjustment, how much you want to spend, etc..

They are all different and better in their own ways.

It's all been covered in various treads, so i suggest starting with spending hours reading through them as most people won't want to repeat themselves again and again and again. Recently I have read about some nistunes not working for unknown reasons also some PFC having problems with the not so old models, as compared to the old ones, lol..

But basically you first need to know what you want in the end, then find the appropriate steps to get there. Or at least an idea of what you want from each piece as you source it..

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031430
Share on other sites

I actually think a power FC offers very little over a Nistune, its really only the hand controller and the nistune actually offers more load points. The Nistune has the added bonus of being cheaper. In a mild build my choice would be nistune, beyond that I would go Wolf, Link, Vipec ect. The power FCs time has come and gone IMO

The stock RB25 AFM will handle up to about 250rwkw worth of airflow. I wouldn't worry about changing AFMs unless you are shooting for something above that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031496
Share on other sites

it all really depends on exactly what you will want from it. future mods, tuning adjustment, how much you want to spend, etc..

They are all different and better in their own ways.

It's all been covered in various treads, so i suggest starting with spending hours reading through them as most people won't want to repeat themselves again and again and again. Recently I have read about some nistunes not working for unknown reasons also some PFC having problems with the not so old models, as compared to the old ones, lol..

But basically you first need to know what you want in the end, then find the appropriate steps to get there. Or at least an idea of what you want from each piece as you source it..

This is the most cruicial part in a build.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031519
Share on other sites

Over the next 5yrs I want to avoid having to do any internal work. Now that my mates got a 350+ supra I've got some catching up to do. But at the end I can say I did it and not just bought a car already at that point after someone elses work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031530
Share on other sites

Over the next 5yrs I want to avoid having to do any internal work. Now that my mates got a 350+ supra I've got some catching up to do. But at the end I can say I did it and not just bought a car already at that point after someone elses work.

If you want to get the best out of the car without pushing the envelope too much go Nistune, z32 AFM, 550cc injectors and a R34 High flow turbo. Enjoy a trouble free 270 to 300rwkw.

That would probably be more than enough to serve it up to an uber boat supra

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031549
Share on other sites

Learn from my mistakes, Buy a Vipec as it is best suited and will support things like AFM's less tune (has a 3 bar map sensor built in) flex fuel tune (sensor can be brought for it) and nearly everyone can tune it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7031936
Share on other sites

Learn from my mistakes, Buy a Vipec as it is best suited and will support things like AFM's less tune (has a 3 bar map sensor built in) flex fuel tune (sensor can be brought for it) and nearly everyone can tune it.

I agree with Clint, but that may be biased due to me having a Vipec. I Believe Andy (Bunta) also recently made the change over to a Link/Vipec ecu, think he had a Haltech previously from memory

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7032037
Share on other sites

I had a power FC. Link/Vipec are good as are Adaptronic, Wolf and to a lesser extent (in my experience only) Haltech. But if budget is a consideration Nistune is the answer if you dont need external inputs like crank triggers and boost controllers ect ect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432202-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-7032117
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...