Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends on your paint skills and expected results!

If it's say in the engine bay or under the boot lid and you're not too fussed about a factory appearance then definately do it yourself. If it's part of a large panel (around rear window or some other fiddly bit) then I would probably take it to a good panel beater that will cut it out and repair it properly, not just bog over the top of the rust and repaint it.

Again if it's not too bad you may be able to do the prep work yourself and just get it repainted by someone else. Might save you a fair bit of cash that way. If you've got a welder it's surprising what you can do. I've welded a fair few sections into my Datsun and it is surprising what result you can get with some patience and steady hands.

Yeah it's above drivers window and couple smaller ones down the rear quarter window the only rust it has.

Deffinatelly will have to get someone to do it as window may have to come out also.

Do you know any product that will make it stop rusting in those spots?

Cheers ewan

There's some incredibly good rust removing compounds available for surface rust. 3M do a good product, there's another one I cant remember the brand name but Super Cheap sell it (in a small black plastic container with a handle on top, like a mini oil container).

You put the compound on the rusty bit, leave it for 10 minutes, wipe it off with prepsol (oil and wax remover) then with a damp cloth. Repeat if needed. Provided the rust isn't too deep it works awesome. I did a fair few spots in my car (plenum chamber near bonnet hinges, under the boot seal and behind the inner guard liner. Came up pretty good. Provided you either paint it, treat with a rust inhibitor or fish oil, it should keep the rust away in future.

It's a constant battle!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...