Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just starting to mod my gtr

Thought a good first mod would be a boost controller, was looking at the new greddy PRofec just looking for some feedback on this or any other good models, looking at spending $500 or under ish.

I've started getting used to the power now and think I need a bit more just wondering what some other relatively good mods to follow on with and not break the bank

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/
Share on other sites

What model is your gtr? On mobile, can't see details.

Pfc + tune will net you 250-260kw with boost restrictior pulled out to 14psi. No need for boost controller of any sort really

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7053952
Share on other sites

Dash 7/9 are Garrett 2860 (or 2859's) turbos bolt on for gtr's, do a search on forums for threads relating to them.

No need for baffling while the motor is unopened, just overfill it by half to a litre on top of 4.6L, start worry about them when you rebuild the motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7053990
Share on other sites

Also, couple of threads to read, rb26 dyno results thread, it should give you ideas what to look for power wise with stock turbos and aftermarket bolt on's. It's on top of this forum, you can't miss it, have a read.

Another one is 'guide for 300-330kw gtr' thread - you'll need to search this, search button is your friend.

These threads will cover most of your questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054002
Share on other sites

And dash 7/9 are not the same as n1 turbos? and what would be the best twin setup direct replacement for good power

Dash 7 is r34 n1.

My choice is dash 9's, I've had gtr's with both -7/-9s. -7's are common and heaps of them are on for sale if you're looking at used turbos.

Both are bolt on turbos, and you'll need r33 gtr or larger dump pipes since you've got a 32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054005
Share on other sites

Assuming that you have all the maintenance up to date(fluids, brakes, suspension etc), that the exhaust is at least 3 inches from the cat back and everything is in good condition...

As stated above, either drill out or remove the stock boost restricter. Will net you 12-14psi.

I would suggest you get a nistune board installed in you stock ecu. It will be cheaper and arguably better than a PFC.

As a preventative measure, I would invest in a new fuel pump too.

From there.... how fast do you want to spend/go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054441
Share on other sites

I no it's terrible, when I bought the skyline I was like nah ill just leave it fairly stock just a couple of cheap mods hear and there. And spend the money doing a rebuild on my s12 sil but the silvia is under a car cover and it's like out of sight out of mind need more power better bits for the skyline hahaha.

Yer maintanance is pretty up to date I think. just had clutch slave and master done and brake master, injector kits, I'll look into the exhaust and start saving for the ecu and go from there. Can anyone suggest a good link for removing said boost restrictor too

As for power I guess eventually 300-350 kW would be nice but on apprentice wage I'm in no rush lol

Edited by 0zhiph0p
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054682
Share on other sites

I no it's terrible, when I bought the skyline I was like nah ill just leave it fairly stock just a couple of cheap mods hear and there. And spend the money doing a rebuild on my s12 sil but the silvia is under a car cover and it's like out of sight out of mind need more power better bits for the skyline hahaha.

Yer maintanance is pretty up to date I think. just had clutch slave and master done and brake master, injector kits, I'll look into the exhaust and start saving for the ecu and go from there. Can anyone suggest a good link for removing said boost restrictor too

As for power I guess eventually 300-350 kW would be nice but on apprentice wage I'm in no rush lol

Passenger side of engine bay is the boost control solenoid. Black vacuum hose going into the side of it. Pull it off, look inside and there is a restrictor inside. Drill or use needle nose pliers to remove.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054697
Share on other sites

Passenger side of engine bay is the boost control solenoid. Black vacuum hose going into the side of it. Pull it off, look inside and there is a restrictor inside. Drill or use needle nose pliers to remove.

It's actually on the drivers side in the gtr.

Don't drill it, just use pliers to take them out, look at one of hoses with yellow marking on them, that's where the restrictor is, squeeze that bit if you don't feel you can squeeze the tube, it means the restrictor is still in.

Yes, it's safe to run 14psi on stock ecu, with PFC/nistune, you'll benefit from extra power after tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...