Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was hoping to see if we could get a bit of feedback on any N/A mods that will provide noticeable results on the 35 ? As far as ive looked at for mine im thinking transgo shift kit, Kinetix manifold/tube/filter, exhaust but not sure how much of it or which brand/brands because i want not over the top noise, no drone, and a nice note.

Anyone run a different set of gears in the diff ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433029-proven-na-mods-to-v35s/
Share on other sites

I guess when you want to run an N/A daily with simple mods to make it a bit sharper and just enjoy so that hopefully you can spend up on the more ridiculous toy in the garage it does sound a little boring to some folks.

I drive a 300gt sedan. Factory 0-100 is 7.5 seconds. After doing the transgo shift kit, a stillen exhaust and swapping the diff to a manual 350z track diff I was running 0-100 in 6.7 seconds. The diff swap and transgo were definitely noticeable.

Nice mate cheers for that,mine is a 5 spd auto coupe and seems you can see at least a second off 0/100 times and definately sharpen up the response , im trying to just improve it all round.... snappier, better handling and braking, traction etc... probably run the 18" rays 350z wheels for extra rubber and possibly the Z's Tokico shocks and springs.... 5 grand max all round and noticeable results with complete reliability and then focus on the more stupid and less used ride in the garage.

Does seem that most info and parts availability knowledge for these cars is ex US and seems we are about to see another dollar rate to our benefit soon.

Nice price mate thats what im after, affordable results and i agree on the z rims id like to run the factory 5 spoke18" wheels just to allow the jump to an 18 with decent 245's rear and 235 fronts and retain a semi factory look at the same time.

VQ25DET or VK45DE :-)

I recall seeing a writeup of a company that mangaged to squeeze a VK56 into a 350Z, so that is do-able if you have enough $$..

But now we are getting silly! :)

The VR38 is just a VQ anyway. The only decent suggestion so far has been the VQ25det but I don't want you guys to get your hopes up, they are a rare engine...

Anyway, off topic, as the OP won't spend the moneyz on an engine swap, engine build or decent mods. He just wants the generic g35 bolt-on feel-good parts.

What's the bet he buys a poopcharger?

OP

In seriousness. You won't get all that much performance out of the vq35de with bolt on stuff. You'll make it noisy, and it might feel faster, but it's not going to be a rocket. That being said, the order to do things is some form of plenum mod, be it a spacer, or plenum top, then exhaust and high flow cats. Leave the airbox the fk alone. Headers are ok, but expensive in cost and labour for the benefit. That's where to leave it unless you really want to plow some money into it.

Well yeah i guess im not actually after bulk power increases so in effect the Kinetix manifold cat back and a transgo shift kit plus the lsd upgrade and uprev tune would
probably get me what im after....effectively just a more responsive and slightly better sounding 35.... i see 5 grand as reasonable if i include the upgraded wheel tyre combo
and seems like that would be close all up.
If i was after bulk power and forced nduction etc i wouldnt have bought a v35 im happy with a smooth nice handling daily so i can get on with my other car too...anyways
cheers for any helpful info.

+1 for hks turbo kit My car drives like a normal v35 until 3k rpm then hold on In saying that I would recommend supercharger as turbo is a pain in the ass start to finish as I'm sure Scotty would agree. Kinetix velocity manifold transgo and decent hi flow cats with uprev is the way to go if you're sticking NA and I found the K&N panel filter gained 5kw before I went FI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...