Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been trying to fix this for over a month now so thought I'd create a thread on here to see if anyone has had something similar. I've tried to summarise as best as I could.

Car info:

  • Cefiro
  • RB25
  • Locked diff
  • 2 piece tailshaft

Problem info:

  • October 2012 - Purchased car in QLD and drove it home to VIC (no apparent vibration present or I wouldn't have been driving it far)
  • June 2013 - Raised the car and put new rims on to get it on club permit and drove it around a few times with no apparent vibration (from memory...)
  • July/August 2013 - Drove it down the freeway and noticed a vibration from 70km/h and higher that shakes the entire car. It's so violent that the dash, seat and everything shakes so much that I have to slow down.
  • September/Oct 2013
    • New wheels bearings fitted to rear due to play found in left hub
    • New rear tie rods fitted due to play found
    • New rear traction rods fitted due to play in stock items
    • Swapped rims for stock items (used the same ones for trip back from QLD) and also tried another set of wheels
    • Put rear on jack stands and ran it up to 70km/h and vibration is still there (eliminated it being a front end issue)
    • Removed tailshaft and ran up to 70km/h and no vibration present.
    • Got the tailshaft inspected and balanced and they said it was only SLIGHTLY out at the front and it wouldn't have caused a major vibration...still charged me $150 for the pleasure....
    • Inspected gearbox and engine mounts and they appear solid (only a mm or so of movement)
    • Refitted tailshaft and vibration is still there :(

Remaining options:

  • Swap diff out for a stock item
  • Others???

That's all I've got left at the moment - other than taking it to a workshop however based on previous experience I'm not super keen to do this - spend hours investigating, charge for it and the problem is still there :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433270-vibration-at-70kmh-and-higher/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Been trying to fix this for over a month now so thought I'd create a thread on here to see if anyone has had something similar. I've tried to summarise as best as I could.

Car info:

  • Cefiro
  • RB25
  • Locked diff
  • 2 piece tailshaft
Problem info:
  • October 2012 - Purchased car in QLD and drove it home to VIC (no apparent vibration present or I wouldn't have been driving it far)
  • June 2013 - Raised the car and put new rims on to get it on club permit and drove it around a few times with no apparent vibration (from memory...)
  • July/August 2013 - Drove it down the freeway and noticed a vibration from 70km/h and higher that shakes the entire car. It's so violent that the dash, seat and everything shakes so much that I have to slow down.
  • September/Oct 2013

  • New wheels bearings fitted to rear due to play found in left hub
  • New rear tie rods fitted due to play found
  • New rear traction rods fitted due to play in stock items
  • Swapped rims for stock items (used the same ones for trip back from QLD) and also tried another set of wheels
  • Put rear on jack stands and ran it up to 70km/h and vibration is still there (eliminated it being a front end issue)
  • Removed tailshaft and ran up to 70km/h and no vibration present.
  • Got the tailshaft inspected and balanced and they said it was only SLIGHTLY out at the front and it wouldn't have caused a major vibration...still charged me $150 for the pleasure....
  • Inspected gearbox and engine mounts and they appear solid (only a mm or so of movement)
  • Refitted tailshaft and vibration is still there :(
Remaining options:
  • Swap diff out for a stock item
  • Others???

That's all I've got left at the moment - other than taking it to a workshop however based on previous experience I'm not super keen to do this - spend hours investigating, charge for it and the problem is still there :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I reckon it could be the diff on its way out - ford j used to own a few years ago, as it was on its way out it started to vibrate, sort of like a feeling of vibration to the left... Ended up being the diff's way of asking to be replaced.

Ps: I'm no professional so you should probably wait for a few people's opinions ;)

Vibration is still there...

  • Removed the rear wheels and tightened the lug nuts on to hold the discs in place to 100% eliminate wheel issues.
  • Swapped the diff last night for a stock r32 item
  • Rechecked the gearbox yoke, centre bearing

Other possibilities:

  • One of the rear drive shafts are dodgy - vibration definitely feels closer to the front though
  • Gearbox has an internal issue of some sort that is only affected when the tailshaft is attached

Anyone know of a good driveline workshop on the Westside? I'm almost at the stage where I'll take it to a shop and say...

619224d1358412773-exxos-blue-shut-up-tak

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

engine mounts? Centre bearing? Diff mounts/bushes?

I got a polyurethene gearbox mount and played around to get the exhaust hanger from the stock mount to fit but ended up with bad vibrations. Ditched it and it was fine. Probably not your issue but just putting it out there

I don't use the exhaust hanger off the rear of the mount - was like this when I bought the car.

Engine mounts - Possible, but they look ok and without the tailshaft connected there is no vibration.

Centre bearing - Had it inspected when the shaft was out and is all good.

Diff mounts/bushes - Solid bushes all round and diff mounts are solid.

When I was test driving it last night it does feel isolated to where the rear of the box joins the tailshaft. I noticed that 2 of the bolts don't do up tightly on the crossmember so I'm going to tap them out to 12mm x 1.25 tonight and see how it is after they are fully tightened.

Removing the tailshaft and running it up to 70km/h to me doesnt completely eliminate things in front of the gearbox as there is no real load on the engine.

Having said that, I pulled my engine recently and have been driving with a completely seperated left side engine mount, hadnt really noticed it

Fix the gearbox crossmemeber if you have an issue there. see what that does.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update...

  • Revisted the driveshaft shop and they put it on the hoist again. They suggested the box alignment was affecting the angle of the front section and suggested I play with the spacing between the box/crossmembers and the centre bearing/body. Spaced the box up but no love.
  • Ran the car with wheels off and touched various parts and the vibration is entering the body from the centre bearing mount (which I suspected from feeling the tunnel).

Plan for this weekend will be to replace the centre bearing and see how that goes. It feels solid and apparently is ok but there is almost zero movement in it and my research tells me that it should have some movement in there so I'll give it a go. The car was sitting for a while so its possible it has seized (no idea how old the bearing would be...).

If that is no good I'll consider a 1 piece shaft in the coming months but this may require an exhaust mod too.

I don't use the exhaust hanger off the rear of the mount - was like this when I bought the car.

Engine mounts - Possible, but they look ok and without the tailshaft connected there is no vibration.

Centre bearing - Had it inspected when the shaft was out and is all good.

Diff mounts/bushes - Solid bushes all round and diff mounts are solid.

When I was test driving it last night it does feel isolated to where the rear of the box joins the tailshaft. I noticed that 2 of the bolts don't do up tightly on the crossmember so I'm going to tap them out to 12mm x 1.25 tonight and see how it is after they are fully tightened.

Solid diff mounts increase the amount of NVH throughout the car, i would be checking all the bushes in the back end and your diff. Grab the diff yoke and move it up and down, 1 of the pinion bearings starting to fail will cause a bad vibration also

Does the vibration get worse if staying at a steady speed at 70 or above?

And is the vibration less if accelerating strongly through 70?

If you answer yes to both the above, I'd still suggest that the tail shaft is the culprit and thus, have a loan of another club member's shaft (that's alright). I had to replace my r33 GTR's shaft due to weakness in the middle.

  • 2 months later...

I have a similar sounding problem....mine is at 130km/h + doesn't sound as bad as your vibration though. seems as though mine originates from rear of gearbox/front of tailshaft. interested to know if you managed to fix yours.

  • 6 months later...

Vibration is fixed! Had a whole new tailshaft made but Melbourne Driveshafts and not an ounce of vibration is present now.

Interesting that even after being told the old tailshaft was balanced properly and had no visible issues it actually was the problem. M&S Driveshafts continued to tell me my gearbox was out of alignment and wouldn't test drive the car to see what the issue actually was.

Glad I ended up going somewhere else in the end :)

Edited by konect

Thanks for the update! my vibration turned out to be one of the hicas rack ends, Chasers were trying to tell me i needed another new wheel bearing even though they had just been changed, reckoned they had been installed wrong (wasn't done by them).......pfffft, glad i didn't listen to them those OEM bearings and hubs are expensive.

im glad i found this thread

i have the same issues...

BUT.....

currently my gearbox is not aligned ( so i know i def need to get the gearbox mounts)

Was also told i need to replace basically all rear bushes so im trying to poly bushings all around

need to check if my mounts are all solid...

currently driving the cars is very harsh esp with it sitting on coilovers

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I also have a similar problem with my r33. Since owning it, about 2 months now, I've changed diff, tail shaft and clutch and a vibration still persists.

My vibration is not as bad as what you described konect but it is enough for me to not drive the car on the highway or attend track events such as happy laps, which is very annoying.

I had planned to fit new wheel bearings to the rear and maybe rear tie rod ends or ball joints. I might now also look into gearbox mounts as the car came with Hardrace engine and gearbox mounts.

I'm very interested to here from others what was their fix.

This problem dampens the enjoyment of owning such a vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...