Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This Stuffed? Damaged In Transit.

D.I.Y. Mik
 Share

Recommended Posts

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Got my diff back from sydney via couriers.

It seems to be damaged. See that bit is bent back.

post-89755-0-52728100-1381780200_thumb.jpgpost-89755-0-51295600-1381780178_thumb.jpgpost-89755-0-05783200-1381780217_thumb.jpg

Theres a new Kaaz 2 way in there with no oil yet.

Would a hit big enough to do that, damage the centre too?

If i bolt a driveshaft to that it will be bad, right?

Im very dissapointed, a diff was something ive saved $ for, for a while now and it looks broken already.

Canberra Centenary Hillclimb this weekend, wont be able to enter now.

But mainly the $1900 i just spent.

:rant:

Make sure you have insurance on the couriers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433362-is-this-stuffed-damaged-in-transit/
Share on other sites
White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Could it have been damaged in transit, possibly. What's more likely, is that it was damaged when the person assembling the diff was installing the half shafts. They require a decent hit to get them past the circlip. Having said that, is it a big deal? I don't think so. It doesn't look too bad, and I think it will pull straight once bolted up.

colourclassic Mentor

colourclassic

Posted
Posted

I don't think a hit that big would be enough force to transfer into the diff itself and do damage, but I also don't think bolting up a drive shaft is a great idea either. I may be off on this, but I wonder If you could remove that bent outdrive and take it to an engineer to be straightened and annealed to reduce the internal stresses.

chez00 Contributor

chez00

Posted
Posted

That sucks mate, but the LSD will be fine. If you know someone with a dial indicator, set it up against the flange face and rotate the shaft with the indicator against the flange that's taken the hit (I know one of the ears is bent but it's to see if the actual flange is out of alignment with the shaft, so set the dial indicator in towards the centre a little). You shouldn't see too much runout, otherwise the shaft/flange is out of alignment. 0.1mm (.004") would be a ballpark limit. If you've got a spare half shaft or can find one, just put that in.

I doubt that would have been caused by knocking the half shafts back in, probably dropped in transit.

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Being cast, you run the risk of cracking the flange if you straighten it. If you do decide to straighten it, make sure you crack test it afterwards. Alternatively, replace the half shaft to be on the safe side.

Trying to bolt a half shaft onto that might not straighten it, and if so, will then subject that bolt to fatigue loading. Bolted joins rely on a good contact surface between the 2 components. A slight gap (and misalignment) will lead to broken bolts through fatigue and uneven loading under the bolt head.

As others have said, I think that the diff centre is protected from thrust loading from the half shafts, so that shouldn't have damaged the diff centre.

Certainly does suck though - hard to get good help these days

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.

the shop rang and he said take it out and try to hammer it flat again, carefully.

It works 90% of the time.... apparently.

Ill give it a go, if it doesnt work....... new shaft.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys.

the shop rang and he said take it out and try to hammer it flat again, carefully.

It works 90% of the time.... apparently.

Ill give it a go, if it doesnt work....... new shaft.

Mine was the same when a mate shimmed my old diff... The bolts will pull it flat of you double up the spanners ;)

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well that sucks. I reckon it would take a decent hit to bend that. My guess is it had something heavy on it or dropped during transit. Unless you can see a crack on the diff housing I would not worry about any other damage other than the easily replaced halfshaft. Just count the splines on the half shaft, they do vary. Or maybe award can send you one as a goodwill gesture.....

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All fixed now.

Picked up a shaft from a local import wrecker.

By the way Duncan, i owe you one for sure, you took it down for nothing, and the freight company charged a fee for being late, not actually delivering it to me, and damaging it.

So tell us when your down this way so i can buy you a case of beers or something. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...