chez00

Should have mentioned: RS4S manual.

Hello, Anyone got any idea what the drain plug thread size is on the Stag transfer case? Don't have one in the shop to check. Cheers for any help.

The shaft will pop out if you don't fit another one, and yeah will leak oil along with other dramas.

I wouldn't consider swapping the input shaft unless it was designed for you gearbox. Tooth profiles would all vary between manufacturers and you could run into a lot of trouble if you got it wrong. In shot peening's defence, yes it's a surface treatment. So is pretty much any other process we use to make metal stronger and more fatigue resistant. That's because the vast majority of crack formation occurs on the surface. Pretty much every aerospace component is shot peened for this reason and is testament to the process's effectiveness. I'd be surprised if Quaife didn't shot peen gears anyway to be honest. The REM process can be done to the entire gear set to reduce friction, reduce heat in the oil and so on. If you have a look on the remchem website there are a bunch of SAE papers proving the effectiveness of the process. There are some "stress relieving" characteristics as a result of the process too. A large spline option would be best though.

PPG do a billet mainshaft with the Chevy splines, but obviously won't suit your 6 speed. Have you contacted Quaife to see what they have? We shot peen and Isotropic Superfinish (REM) components to improve fatigue resistance, and may be a good solution whether you stick with the standard shaft or get one fabricated. If you want more info on the technology have a look at our website: www.neategearboxes.com.au

Palmside have it stitched here in Australia. It's absurd Quaife don't have an official distributor in Australia - shipping from the South Island is stupid. Quaife have never responded to any of my requests to open up a trade account for the record. I'd shop in the States. I've never understood why Quaife are cheaper in the US than the UK. Bigger market blah blah but seriously it still makes no sense.

I can organise them for you. What ratio are you after? Maybe PM with what you need and we'll go from there.

Lots of guys into drift run a 2 way but either will suit your purposes really. All of the above-mentioned brands would be fine as they are tried and tested. Kaaz have good support and make all the clutches etc. available for rebuild if it becomes worn out down the track, unsure about availability of the others.

The stock centre plate of the RB25/6 gearbox can flex in high torque, high grip situations such as aggressive launches or high speed cornering. When it flexes the shafts (mainshaft and countershaft) come out of alignment and the gears destroy each other. The billet centre plate improves case rigidity. It's basically a full rebuild to install, so would be done with a bearing and seal refresh as a minimum, check synchros etc.

I'm in adelaide and do all above mentioned work. 0407698682

Was also thinking a billet centre plate in the gearbox is not a bad idea. This would prevent shock loading and shaft separation in the gearbox on hard launches at Collingrove. I see you're in Adelaide - feel free to contact us if you'd like any further info.

^parts prices only, right? The quaife front LSD goes for around $1850 without install or bearings or seals. The setup Piggaz has suggested would give a great setup for OPs application though.

What are you after exactly in a kit? Bearings and seals? I can help - PM me car details and I'll quote you up.

Drop the tailshaft and turn the gearbox yoke independently. Then do the same for the diff. Work out where the problem is, because it can be deceiving when it's all hooked up. I'd agree that it sounds like you've got too much backlash in the diff. There's not a whole lot in the gearbox which would cause a delay to take up, unless you're missing teeth or something.

That's a good idea, interested in how this develops - the SR20 box has the same issue too. I'll have a look when I'm in the workshop tomorrow but perhaps there's a way of going to some sort of spring and key in the hub, rather than the clip arrangement (I can't quite picture the setup at the moment)? I know it would be a bit of machining but may be worth it if it's a recurring issue.

Do you specifically want an auto? Have you had any problems with the manual with the power you're running? We have gear strengthening options for standard and aftermarket sets: We're doing complete rebuilds with genuine Nissan bearings and seals, crack test, shot peen and isotropic super-finished gears (standard gear set) for $1,570. These processes improve fatigue resistance of gears by over 30% and reduce operating temperatures in gearboxes by 5*C according to independent SAE tests. Shoot us a pm if you're interested. Our website explains some of the technology in more detail: www.neatgearboxes.com.au

I've got two RB20 boxes in the workshop with shagged second. As you say, street driving kills second and track driving kills third.

The dogs do wear in street application but I'd say you could get 50k out of them with a good operator. They are annoying on the street but then again I find coil overs annoying on the street, haha! I know it's a bit of a shameless plug but ISF treating dog gears definitely slows the wear down and improves shifts. PPG should solve your breakage issues but check other things like case alignment (centre plate flex) as well as the usual shimming etc., because no gears will put up with being out of alignment regardless of how strong they are. Did you run a billet centre plate with the OS set? Are you confident that the box was assembled with the correct clearances and preloads? It's easy to say the gear set is no good but it can often be bad assembly that leads to gear failure, and stupid things like using the wrong (poor quality) bearing. Please do not read this as a stab at you or your mechanic (or whoever assembled your gearbox), just worthy of a little thought. Before buying, definitely see if you can drive a dog around your local beat to see what you think if you haven't already, you might hate it too.

What you're saying is technically correct - the gearbox ratios don't get any closer to each other by swapping the final drive ratio. All gearbox ratios at the wheels get shorter though via the final drive gear set in the diff, and this means at the wheels (where it matters), the ratios do get proportionately "closer" (accelerate quicker, but lower top speed). This will lead to the response the OP is looking for more so than the OS close ratio set.

That sucks mate, but the LSD will be fine. If you know someone with a dial indicator, set it up against the flange face and rotate the shaft with the indicator against the flange that's taken the hit (I know one of the ears is bent but it's to see if the actual flange is out of alignment with the shaft, so set the dial indicator in towards the centre a little). You shouldn't see too much runout, otherwise the shaft/flange is out of alignment. 0.1mm (.004") would be a ballpark limit. If you've got a spare half shaft or can find one, just put that in. I doubt that would have been caused by knocking the half shafts back in, probably dropped in transit.

There is a detent and spring on each side of the shifter which centralises the shifter - perhaps one of the springs has bent or jammed, or you've sheared off the detent pin? They're behind a large 27mm (from memory) headed bolt either side of the extension housing close to the shifter mount plate.

Depends on power and application - more info?

crown wheel bolts: 3810211S00 (8 required). I can source all of these parts at very competitive prices - shoot me a PM if you're interested.

They are very similar. As a couple of examples, the mainshaft part number is the same between the GTS4 and GTR boxes, but different to the 2wd rb20 boxes. The bearings are the same between the GTR and GTS4 but different to the RB20. These are two indicators that they are of similar strength.