Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks fantastic but wondering about the practicality of it for 2 reasons.

1 - The movement in the pipe will be slightly more than the engine since it's further away from the mounts.

2- The HEAT coming out of that is surely going to bubble the bonnet.

Looks fantastic but wondering about the practicality of it for 2 reasons.

1 - The movement in the pipe will be slightly more than the engine since it's further away from the mounts.

2- The HEAT coming out of that is surely going to bubble the bonnet.

Nah, I've seen the screamer through the bonnet on a few cars at Powercruise over the years, no visible damage to the bonnet or paint or carbon or anything else. Seems to work fine.

I'm just gonna get right down to it

Was running a poorly built 1 1/4" steam pipe log manifold made with pipe tee's and 90s... It cracked all to shit in a matter of 1000 miles (guy didn't know what he was doing/no purge etc)

He's a couple pics of the log

2aqaqapy.jpgtamehyha.jpg

ju9u3ugu.jpg

Like I said within 1000-1500 miles it was cracked to shit!!!!

e4e8e5ez.jpgra7aryqu.jpg

y4y7etuv.jpg

mu5uvadu.jpg

Nice right??

So here's a sneak peak of my finished manifold before we go through the process

maguse4a.jpg

Ok I kid :)

Here we go!

my9e4esu.jpg

evedahuj.jpg

ana9ybeq.jpg

epusurer.jpg

muduja2a.jpg

zahanagy.jpg

9a8a4yde.jpggesyqu9u.jpg

Quick break to check my pistons for any detonation marks

gu6utyju.jpg

Nope were looking good back to it

semy8yge.jpg

yde8u3er.jpg\

Meanwhile........Still banging out shop work

ty9u7eba.jpg

Back to the fun stuff......

sytuqezu.jpg

dasa8y9e.jpg

e5avemeh.jpg

mu9y5a2u.jpg

8u7yhuhe.jpg

a6uzuhy5.jpg

Meanwhile he's doing that I'm sorting out my new fuel system, wiring for the AEM V2, cas trigger disc, suspension, new wheels, hicas abs delete etc

ryhube3u.jpg

etubytut.jpg

y9apyzam.jpgu7umubaj.jpg

Nice welding mate, how do you fabricate the contoured CHS parts for the merge collectors ?

Nice welding mate, how do you fabricate the contoured CHS parts for the merge collectors ?

The collector is built using spayed cut pipe. From there he just welds them together and ports it out by hand.... Nothing exotic there.

Nice work! What are the engine specs? And is that one of those "oil less" Comp Turbos? Not a popular choice - be interesting to hear how it goes

Tomei genesis RB28 shortblock

Mild port on head

Multiangle valve job

Tomei valve springs

Greddy 264 9.1 cams (gonna go more aggressive later like 272 11 lift)

This comp turbo is not oil-less, you can see the feed and Drain in a couple pics

They hadn't released that technology yet when I got this turbo about 4-5 years ago, they literally released billet wheels a month or two after I ordered it otherwise I would've gone billet

It's a 72mm triple ball bearing SX wheel .81 hotside

Selling price?

he said he could do the 1st couple at $1700usd to break into the Australian market

Once they prove themselves there (and they will) the price would bump up a little

This includes a manifold setup for twin tial gates

Tomei genesis RB28 shortblock

Mild port on head

Multiangle valve job

Tomei valve springs

Greddy 264 9.1 cams (gonna go more aggressive later like 272 11 lift)

This comp turbo is not oil-less, you can see the feed and Drain in a couple pics

They hadn't released that technology yet when I got this turbo about 4-5 years ago, they literally released billet wheels a month or two after I ordered it otherwise I would've gone billet

It's a 72mm triple ball bearing SX wheel .81 hotside

Ahh silly me - cheers for the details, sounds like it's going to be a bit of a monster :)

he said he could do the 1st couple at $1700usd to break into the Australian market

Once they prove themselves there (and they will) the price would bump up a little

This includes a manifold setup for twin tial gates

I'm located in the US. I have my own race shop in AZ. Just curious on the product. Looks great.

I really wanted to be but I'm still not 100% ready for my largest race for the season coming up in a few weeks. I have a new motor installed that I haven't heard make noise yet!!! We might make a day trip cause I have a few empty body panels that could use sponsorship. Kinda up to the wife also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...