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Performance Parts Sale Gt35R Turbo Kit, A.r.e Galore, Sard Injectors, Superspark, Bosch, Walbro + More


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Rb26 turbo kit

Genuine Gt3582r

Stainless manifold

Tial 60mm wastegate and screamer

Dump pipe and intake pipe

Comes with all oil water lines fittings etc

$1500

Sard 800cc injectors with sard fuel reg on a rb26 fuel rail

$490

Superspark coilpacks suit rb20 rb26 rb25 s1

$260

A.R.E radiator set up for r33 gtst comes with thermo fan, the bottles and hoses etc

Best set up I've seen for a long time

$230

A.R.E r33 washer bottle

$60

A.R.E power steering reservoir

$50

Greddy Intercooler kit comes with everything

Removed from r33 but will fit 32 34

$200

R32 vented fibreglass guards imported from Japan fitted and painted orange

$150

R33 Gtr fuel pump cradle fitted with Bosch 044 pump

$140

S15 fuel pump cradle fitted with walbro pump

$120

S15 aftermarket taillights

$70

R34 r33 high mount dump and front pipe v band

$40

Cusco coilovers pretty sure they are for forester

$100

R33 gtst stainless catback exhaust

$100

R33 hicas lock bar

$40

Turbo timers blitz greddy etc

$30

Located on the Gold Coast but can post

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  • 3 weeks later...

How much power did the gt35 make on the dyno with that setup? Whats the reason for sale?

Hey mate, very interested in the A.R.E radiator if its still kicking around.

If you could send me some pics that'd be great. Mob 0437177440

Mate interested in the turbo setup and the cooler msg me on 0407106835 cheers

Edited by GODZI11A

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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