Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

gtrGhosTDoGG11

The solenoid on its own is pretty much useless without the controller when it was running on my 33 it had no controller and ran my car at standard boost 7psi thats with filter and exhaust.(it comes with wiring harness lead to the controller)

voityR33

If you give me your address and details i will cod to you.email me :)

Kor'axis

Its exactly the same as the one in the picture brake light works and all (cars in it's not mine).I may allready have a buyer for this ill keep you posted on it.Not sure mspec one maybe.

Email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-903746
Share on other sites

Its not mine its another members pic of their car that i got from the gallery just to depict what my wing looks like.

It looks a bit like a r32 gtr aftermarket copy side skirts and a 400r rear bar a bit thoough to me put onto a r33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-904369
Share on other sites

thanks for letting me use it in my explanation of a stock rear spoiler.HKS-R33

sUPP GDAWG The solenoid on its own is pretty much useless without the controller when it was running on my 33 it had no controller and ran my car at standard boost 7psi thats with filter and exhaust.(it comes with wiring harness lead to the controller)I DONT KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN BY TWO STAGE BOOST?ELABORATE PLEASE.

its a smooth approach to full boost and stays there all the way it feels good.But if you want to be able to use the solenoid go into the wanted or for sale and start looking for profec A controllers being sold separately on their own.I have seen quite a few for sale on these forums they shouldnt be to hard to buy.The solenoid needs new filters and i suggest that you get someone to install for you or get a profec A manual (u can get off the net) which will have install and operating instructions and do it yourself.

im keeping the heat sheild for the moment i think that i still need it for blue slip sorry to the dude who wanted it i would have emailed u but i erased your email by accident.SoZz

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-908070
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...