Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

gtrGhosTDoGG11

The solenoid on its own is pretty much useless without the controller when it was running on my 33 it had no controller and ran my car at standard boost 7psi thats with filter and exhaust.(it comes with wiring harness lead to the controller)

voityR33

If you give me your address and details i will cod to you.email me :)

Kor'axis

Its exactly the same as the one in the picture brake light works and all (cars in it's not mine).I may allready have a buyer for this ill keep you posted on it.Not sure mspec one maybe.

Email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-903746
Share on other sites

Its not mine its another members pic of their car that i got from the gallery just to depict what my wing looks like.

It looks a bit like a r32 gtr aftermarket copy side skirts and a 400r rear bar a bit thoough to me put onto a r33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-904369
Share on other sites

thanks for letting me use it in my explanation of a stock rear spoiler.HKS-R33

sUPP GDAWG The solenoid on its own is pretty much useless without the controller when it was running on my 33 it had no controller and ran my car at standard boost 7psi thats with filter and exhaust.(it comes with wiring harness lead to the controller)I DONT KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN BY TWO STAGE BOOST?ELABORATE PLEASE.

its a smooth approach to full boost and stays there all the way it feels good.But if you want to be able to use the solenoid go into the wanted or for sale and start looking for profec A controllers being sold separately on their own.I have seen quite a few for sale on these forums they shouldnt be to hard to buy.The solenoid needs new filters and i suggest that you get someone to install for you or get a profec A manual (u can get off the net) which will have install and operating instructions and do it yourself.

im keeping the heat sheild for the moment i think that i still need it for blue slip sorry to the dude who wanted it i would have emailed u but i erased your email by accident.SoZz

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43383-r33-parts-fs/#findComment-908070
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...