Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FS: BRAND NEW set of 18" GL57F pro's (same as on the D1 apex fd rx7 drift car) with NEW yokohama avid S306's.

2 piece rim with noble gold spokes and polished dish. Top of the range lightweight jap wheel.

Have not personally seen a set in Australia appart from these.

The dimensions are F18x8 +37 with 235's and R18x9 +40 with 265's

$4550.

If you are seriously interested contact me on 0403 005 006. (Colin)

Located in Adelaide. Can arrange shipping.

Have put a silver set of these on my silver 34.   Had to wait two months for the wheels but well worth it.  Here's a pic of the gold ones you're selling on a black 34.  Such a nice wheel, good luck with the sale.

Damnn I want these wheels!! they look hot.. my 18" Black Racing Pro N1's will be up for sale soon, if you still have the Gramlights by then I'll give you a call.

:)

Damnn I want these wheels!! they look hot.. my 18" Black Racing Pro N1's will be up for sale soon, if you still have the Gramlights by then I'll give you a call.  

:cheers:

Have a set of these in Gunmetal I just about to put on my IS200, sweet rims ;)

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...