Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been a while since I've been on here, my 33 has been lying dormant for quite some time.

However I am finally taking some steps towards getting it back on the road, recently bought a house & now have to sort out a garage so I can bring it home & start work on it.

One thing I need now in preparation for my new cave is a towbar on my daily. I am mainly debating between either a Allin or Hall towbars, but haven't been able to find very much information on personal opinions/experiences of the 2.

I have been quoted about $50 less for the Allin than the Hall, but not sure if the Hall is worth the extra for any reason.

All input would be appreciated.

Cheers

Jared

What car is it for?

Ive had an Allin bar on every one of my cars bar the Ranger (and thats only because i got a rear step/towbar all in one for that from ARB). They make all their stuff inhouse, Hall basically supply and fit a Hayman Reese item and modify it to suit where necessary (which is rare as Hayman Reese basically cover every make and model these days)

I just had an Allin bar put on the Territory recently, was $100 odd bucks cheaper than Hall (or the price of the factory Hayman Reese towpack thats nearly 2k plus install)

All going to be down to a matter of convenience for you. Allins being south west, Hall being North

I've done alot of heavy towing with 4WD's and have always used Allin without problem.

Small family business (Father and 3 daughters) and good after sales service

I think the guy's name is Ron

Well this is turning very one sided fast

What car is it for?

Ive had an Allin bar on every one of my cars bar the Ranger (and thats only because i got a rear step/towbar all in one for that from ARB). They make all their stuff inhouse, Hall basically supply and fit a Hayman Reese item and modify it to suit where necessary (which is rare as Hayman Reese basically cover every make and model these days)

I just had an Allin bar put on the Territory recently, was $100 odd bucks cheaper than Hall (or the price of the factory Hayman Reese towpack thats nearly 2k plus install)

All going to be down to a matter of convenience for you. Allins being south west, Hall being North

Very interesting, car is a 95 model Mazda Astina V6 I doubt a Hall bar would be any different on my car other than a label being only rated to 700kg.

get a second hand one. I got a $400 towbar for $75 for my hilux.

If you can find one for a '95 Mazda Astina Hatch I'll buy it, but I've never seen one yet.

Looking like Allin is going to be the go so far. Thanks for your input guys

Edited by J_Red33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...