Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

The only thing I would add to that is a new fuel pump. The second worst thing that can happen to a 20 year old car after a shredded timing belt, is a failng fuel pump.

Edited by Missileman

Johnny's list is solid.

If you want to go further than that you will find out that everything on the R33 has been sized just right for factory output plus a little more. Figure out what your ultimate power goal is and work back from there to see what needs to be done.

This times 1000!!! I spent about 20 grand on mine when I bought it. Thinking back now could of saved a lot of time and MONEY by researching more. I would of saved about 8 grand and over a year of time for a better result.

Ha ha. I also would have saved a bucket load. 3 turbo's before i reached my power goal,

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

Who's Toshi? lol

P.S Thanks for the help fellas!

Just a thought, see if you can pick up an rb20det turbo actuator and swap it with the rb25 turbo actuator. I've seen the individual actuators sell for around $50. The rb25 turbo actuator is set on roughly 7 psi whereas the rb20 turbo actuator is set on 10 psi.

Just a thought anyway.

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

Agreed, mine leaked at about 160k and they were rock hard. Chalk that up as number 6 on the list of things the dropkick knuckledraggers I took it to for the 100k service didn't do properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...