Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb34 / 24U (Rb26 + 800Cc) - Project RB high deck engine (and related builds)

GTRNUR
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 273
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GTRNUR
GTRNUR

Quick Update. I finally got a weekend off work and was able to visit a Springmount Raceway, which is a new drag strip that was built and 1.5 hrs drive from Cairns. I only ended up doing two

GTRNUR
GTRNUR

There has been big developments with the project.  Towards the end of June I completed and delivered the rebuilt RB33.  It has been run a few times and initial indications are that it should perform v

GTRNUR
GTRNUR

Update Time! Its been a long road to get here, but I finally have some test results for the engine. Last weekend Trent Whyte and Gordon Leonard from Mercury Motorsports jumped on a flight to tune my

Posted Images

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still waiting on the clutch. I've got to chase that up today as its been a couple of weeks. It is a custom made NPC unit though and I have no idea what their turn around time is.

  • Like 1
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I don't believe square, under or over really makes any difference to be honest. It is just one of those facts that IS about engines.

A lot of people have a differing opinions about what works and what doesn't. What it comes down to is more displacement is better if you are after more torque and power, and less lag. Simply because your moving more air.

This is an 89mm bore and 90mm stroke too. Although the sleeve design will support a 90mm bore still, while retaining more cylinder thickness than a 24U block would have with an 87.5mm bore.

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Like 1
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Still waiting on the clutch. I've got to chase that up today as its been a couple of weeks. It is a custom made NPC unit though and I have no idea what their turn around time is.

What is the need for custom Ian?

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Based on recommendations from Trent @ Mercury and Dan (owner of LK Motors who's dyno we used), they actually agreed on the same type of clutch and I am fairly certain it is a custom setup. There is a pull to push converter required, and I believe it uses 1 x carbon and 1 x copper organic disc although don't quote me on that. I believe it is identical to the setup in Mercury's Nitto.

To be honest I left it in their hands to sort out and just paid the bill. I've been too busy with other work this past 3 weeks, which is good considering what will end up being a 4000-4500 change over cost.

Not to mention the brand new exedy carbon twin plate that is in the car is probably a paper weight now. It would be interesting to know if it is salvageable, or if its now looking completely shagged.

anon32 Collaborator

anon32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Once you receive the new clutch will you be re tuning it or should it still be fine given the last was slipping?

Or just doing a power run to see numbers and confirm all is fine?

And what is the price on rotating assembly for this being it's a custom crank?

Edited by anon32
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Based on recommendations from Trent @ Mercury and Dan (owner of LK Motors who's dyno we used), they actually agreed on the same type of clutch and I am fairly certain it is a custom setup. There is a pull to push converter required, and I believe it uses 1 x carbon and 1 x copper organic disc although don't quote me on that. I believe it is identical to the setup in Mercury's Nitto.

To be honest I left it in their hands to sort out and just paid the bill. I've been too busy with other work this past 3 weeks, which is good considering what will end up being a 4000-4500 change over cost.

Not to mention the brand new exedy carbon twin plate that is in the car is probably a paper weight now. It would be interesting to know if it is salvageable, or if its now looking completely shagged.

Are the plates munted on the Exedy? If they are, I would think they are very expensive to replace.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The slippery clutch is still in the car. Not sure how shagged it is yet.

Yes when the new clutch arrives the wick is being turned up.

My goal is still to make 500kw atw on a soft E85 tune, which it should do with ease. 450kw looks to be easily achievable on a low boost 98 tune. Trent wants to turn up the boost to 30 and see how it goes in top end. We'll see, I might have to go for some drinks if that happens and just leave him to it.

  • Like 1
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

And what is the price on rotating assembly for this being it's a custom crank?

I was lucky with this Nitto crank as it was a one-of that they had on the shelf, so I got a good deal.. Not sure why they made it either. Possibly just because...

I've just made a new crank for one of the next two engines which is 87.8mm. All up cost for that came to about $5700 I think, as it is essentially a customised Nitto Rb31 crankshaft, however using GTiR rod journals and it retains the oil squirters in the RB26 block. Prototypes aren't cheap.

Edited by GTRNUR
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'd rather not go putting any kit style guestimate pricing out there just yet. I am planning on doing 2 more prototypes.

Once they deliver some fruit, I will be asking for a production run of crankshafts and the necessary components as a bulk order. This will significantly reduce the costs as well as raise the bar on the quality of the product at the same time.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The new NPC clutch is here but the push to pull converter must have fallen off the boat on the way from Japan, MIA.

I did put an R35 brake setup on the car though, which makes stopping as much fun as accelerating!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...