Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb34 / 24U (Rb26 + 800Cc) - Project RB high deck engine (and related builds)


Recommended Posts

Great read, though I'm hanging out for an open deck RB25! :yes:

In a Stagea block? The main reason for doing the open deck engines is to get better fitment than an RB30 block, but if you don't have to worry about retaining AWD, the RB30's are easier to work with.

The VCT can be transplanted to an Rb26 head too, although it also occurred to me that I could make the spacer plate to adapt between a 26 block and a RB25 neo head. Then plumb in the oil for the VCT to the side of the plate for VCT like I already do for head oil supply on this engine.

Then I guess there is only the matter of getting a side mount plenum and it would fit a GTR still.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reasoning for using Greddy plenum? I have always liked them...but guessing your reasoning may be more measured????

Partly for more volume, partly for the second set of injector bosses, and also so I can balance the intake throttles independently using an old school airflow balance meter.

In hindsight I should have gone with a Nismo one, or gone stock. It was a pain in the ass to get it in there with the extra 10mm height this engine has (in its fitted position). Clutch master cylinder to plenum clearance was non existent until I lowered the engine a little.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second shake-down drive today. Performed flawlessly. :)

Still having to re-work the fuel map a bit, but I have the drive on load area's pretty good now. All going well and weather permitting I'll be going for a sunday drive to put a couple of hundred k's on it.

I was able to take a few photos outside of a garage today too.

post-26553-0-85671300-1387448359_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-31834600-1387448426_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-18360500-1387448476_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-58201500-1387448539_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to read you post about your breather system again after looking at the photo, I thought it read you where trying to vacuum out of the cam covers, oh god no, then after looking at the photo and rereading it I see what you've done, should work very well, a great idea, in the baffling in the camber on the block have you got any gauss/foam/steel wool to "catch" fine air born oil particals

500rwkws is easily achieved with a 2.6 with this turbo and head setup, I would think the idea of this engine is to do it as low in the rev range with as wide as possible power band and least amount of stress on internals as possible

I am keeping a very close eye on this, like the last one, cause as I have nearly completed a RB30 based build and I am not entirely happy with fitment

I love the colour on your car, it is what I wanted but my BB one came up at a price I couldn't let go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the positive replies everyone.

I was able to go for a bit of a drive today, and have so far put about 300km on the new engine. It is awesome to drive, with amazing low end grunt. The only quirt I've noticed is that while it has enough torque to drive at 1700-1800 rpm in 5/6 gears, the roughness of the cams don't make it a smooth drive.

Keeping revs below 4000 is a challenge, as it seems to want to achieve wastegate boost at 3600. Ive had to lower 10 degrees of ignition out of the map so as to reduce torque should boost get to high.

I've got to do something about the noise too. Considering trying an Apexi slip in active silencer to try and curb the drone and bark of it a little.

Edited by GTRNUR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm driving the car every day again now in order to clock up some KM and put the engine through some heat cycles. There is a little over 450km on the engine now and it is continuing to make me smile every time I drive it.

I've got the low end tune to about 80% to perfect, and as a result the throttle response is purely ballistic now. To give you an idea, it will chirp the wheels if you tap the throttle too quickly when idling along in a car park.

The boost response with the 6466 is extremely impressive. It actually achieves wastegate boost quicker than a stock turbo'd GTR does. With moderate loads and driving gently, it makes 0.3kg/cm at 2000 RPM. At 2400, its at about 0.5kg/cm and 1kg/cm at about 3000 RPM. Then you have to ease off the throttle or it will threaten to rev past 4 in the blink of an eye. The twin gates currently have 18lb springs installed, and both gates open at only 3400RPM!

Its going to be interesting to see what kind of top end the engine will deliver. It seems I could have gone with a 6766 or even larger, and still had ballistic response.

That's all for now..

post-26553-0-41027700-1388308672_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it turns out that its even more responsive than I had thought.

The attached picture shows a screen shot of a drive I did today while data logging. 1.3kgcm is the 20K load scale. Full boost was achieved at 3200 rpm. This was the first time I have held it flat in 5th gear to properly load it up, other occasions had been about 3/4 throttle. As you can see from this screen shot, at 3200 its on.

I think it will be capable of pumping 25psi by 3500 from the looks of this, which means I will be very close to achieving my low end power goal of 300kw @ 4000 rpm.

I tried making a drive video today too but my camera it didn't turn out. I need to buy a go pro.

post-26553-0-01005100-1388658222_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...