Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think my clutch is on its way out and I am considering my options for replacement.

I know most people would suggest to ditch the DMF and go with a single mass flywheel, but hear me out...

This car is my daily, I spend a bit of time in traffic and during this time I am shifting up at about 2,000rpm, which means most of the time the engine is sitting below 2,000rpm.

From what I have read, changing to a SMF will create more gearbox chatter and noise below 2,000rpm. At the moment, i can accelerate from around 1,100rpm without a hint of complaint or harshness from the engine (although I don't normally do this).

I don't want to have to keep the engine above 2,000rpm to keep the chatter under control and give a comfortable driving experience in traffic each day, so at this stage i am thinking of going with a new LUK DMF and Exedy clutch. But since I have never had the chance to drive, or even be a passenger in a V35 with a SMF, I am just chasing everyone's opinion given my situation.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434518-single-or-dual-mass-flywheel/
Share on other sites

i had the Southbend clutch from CZP in the states, i believe Southbend are made by Exedy.

It's a single mass and from memory it did make a little noise at low rpm as a lot of aftermarket clutches do,

i'd google it and see some feedback on some personal experiences with the single mass, but i believe most of them will be noisy.

i have heard that the nismo clutch is quiet, but i am not entirely sure if it was a personal experience or not.

good luck mate

Thanks Sean.

I have researched a bit, several people on G35 driver seem to like the JWT package for best driveability and closest to stock for noise/chatter issues. But all agree that any SMF will be noiser than the stock DMF.

My main hugdle is 'how noisy is it going to be for my regular commute to work and will it irritate me enough to regret the change'?

I am hoping to get an opinion from someone may have changed from a DMF to a SMF and drives in similar situations to me.

whoops just realised i kept saying clutch instead of flywheel -.-

but yeah from memory when i was researching a new clutch/flywheel a lot of people were saying the same thing about the JWT and how nice it was to use.

the thing i liked about my Southbend clutch/flywheel is that it was nice and soft, it took a little while to get used to but it was very easy to drive with as my car used to have a stiff as hell exedy clutch in it originally that hurt my feet when driving barefoot lol..

what if you upgrade your sound system and drown the flywheel noise out? haha..

Ditching the dual mass flywheel isn't recommended, it is similar to going for a solid centre clutch, they will both transfer shock and vibration through the drive train causing damage.

Unless you need to ditch it due to power increases...

they will both transfer shock and vibration through the drive train causing damage.

Are you certain of this? all the research I have done suggests Nissan only decided to use a DMF for NHV and not for driveline reliability, and many people are using a Single Mass Fly for many years without any driveline issues.

I found this earlier when researching the options

'two types of gear noise that commonly occur when using a lightened flywheel on the 350Z or G35: 1) idle mode rattle (also called neutral rollover noise), which occurs when idling in neutral with the clutch engaged, and 2) burst rattle (or start-up rattle), which is heard when accelerating heavily at very low rpm. Although annoying to some drivers, the additional gear noise should pose no harm to the transmission.'

Either way, it seems to universally accepted that a SMF will be noisier, and since this is my daily, I don't think the increase in noise will offset the benefit it will give for me, so I am leaning toward a new DMF at this stage.

Anyone had any experience with LuK flywheels? they seem to be an OE supplier to many manufacturers.

I went through the same topic with the RS4 Audi guys, we came to the decision if it aint a problem, why change it. If you don't plan to run more power there is no point changing from oem.

Do you think Nissan put it there just for noise reduction? It has more flex than the clutch springs allow movement. Good for heavy clutch dumps or people that have poor clutch control.

More important that flywheel selection imo is changing the spigot bush in the crank. Nismo do a roller bearing one but it isn't a good idea for the road from what I hear as they fail without re-greasing regularly, just a new bronze bush is best.

Thanks for the input, I was going to go with the Nismo roller spigot bearing, but will just go with the standard bronze unit now.

Will probably replace the stock pivot ball too.

The other driving factor for a SMF is cost. A new LuK DMF is around $600-$800 alone. yet I can get the JWT SMF, clutch and pressure plate for around $750.

My first thought was just to have the stock DMF resurfaced, but opinions on that range from 'not recommended' to 'not possible', so I guess that is out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...