Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone,

I am putting my 1995 GTR V-spec up for sale.

Silver

18 " alloys (falken 275's)

HKS Valve Controller

Turbo Timer

HKS Piping

ABS

Power steering

Power windows

Power Mirrors

Climate Control

3 1/2" exhaust with CATCO Cat

Intercooler

Active LSD

oil cooler

Nardi Steering wheel

Rego - Jan 2005

$43000 ono

Here are some link, as you can see, it is in excellent condition.

PICS: skylinegtr3l.jpg

skylinegtrl.jpg

skylinegtr2l.jpg

Thanks

Marianne

  • 2 weeks later...
hi people,  

 

Just wondering if people are not interested in GTR's anymore or is there another reason why they are not selling??

 

Just curious...

Marianne

Being a 'specialist' skyline forum people here can be pretty anal about prices. The car looks nice, genuine and clean.

The only negative (although not one in my eyes) is the lack of modifications.

I for one would love to buy the car but dont have 40k available.

33 GTR's and vspecs to boot are a specialised car for specialised buyers. Many people just won't part with $40k for a 9 year old car.

I think you'll have to be patient and wait for that genuine person with 40k who wants a clean stock silver 33 vspec.

Guess what Im trying to say is its a special car that will attract special buyers, that maybe few and far between.

Make sure u advertise in a variety of places/media.

I am putting up a challenge to sell this car:

$500 reward for the person that sells it for me over $40,000

$500 only if the car sells over $40K (doesnt matter how much over 40K it goes for)

This is a serious reward, but please only refer serious buyers who are looking for a GTR.

Once the car is sold I will give $500 (within 5 days) to the person who referred the buyer (either in cash or direct into an accout)

Does this interest anyone?

Thanks

Marianne

interesting ... I am selling my 97 gts-t to buy a 95-96 vspec gtr ... 40k seems like a decent price ... 30,000 km's seems a little low.... if it was a better colour i would probably take it off your hands before you could say YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...