Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just posting this ad for a mate of mine. I'll just copy and paste what's written on his ad.

FS: 1991 Nissan Silvia S13 5sp SR20DE

K's: 177***

Colour: Dark Green with Grey interior

Comments:

Exterior - Stock Body Kit

- O.Z. 17" Rims (Unkown Model and Offset)

- Aftermarket Muffler, makes a very good deep roar but doesn't attract much attention, not too loud.

Interior - Blue LED Lights in HUD

- Stock Seats

- Professionally installed soundsystem including Soundstream speakers all round with all gold cables, Alpine monoblock and Blopunk plus one 10" Sub in the back.

Mechanically everything is fine except gear synchro for 2nd gear isn't at its best so I just granny shift into second which isn't too annoying and front shocks will need to be changed.

REGO till July 2014 and no RWC but passed one in June/July of this year so it shouldn't need much plus I have the documentation of the last test.

All in all a very good, reliable car which works and runs fine. It's fairly unique so you know you're driving something special on the roads.

Would like to sell the car quickly so if you come have a look and are ready to buy with cash we can certainly negotiate on the price.

$5,500 O.N.O.

Link to Carsales: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Silvia-1991/SSE-AD-2425218/?Cr=0&sdmvc=1

Contact Charlton on his number, 0450 240 642 if you're interested!

Thanks.

cp5480951525070850007.jpg?height=700&asp

cp5399785195260961914.jpg?height=700&asp

cp5046161185778243514.jpg?height=700&asp

cp4679720070018660258.jpg?height=700&asp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434678-vic-sr20de-nissan-silvia-s13/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...