Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so last summer i was having an issue with my fuel pump not priming and i had to just reselect the key to "on" a couple times and it would kick on and fire up. well at the end of the summer it was getting worse and worse and now it wont turn on the pump at all. The fuel pump relay is FINE.

If i ground the ecu signal wire at the relay the relay clicks and pump turns on (the car wont run this way though. ecu doesnt want to give spark like this). The ecu is not sending the signal anymore. loose wire maybe? nope. here's the weird part, checking continuity between signal wire and ground, with ignition to "off" i have closed circuit and when i select ignition to "on" the circuit opens. so the ecu is basically doing the opposite of what it is supposed to do. im skeptical that it is anything to do with the wiring, i did the harness conversion myself soldered/heat shrink all connections. Not to mention i drove it for a year and a half probably about 7000km including a trip down to the states with no issues at all.

i think something is loose within the ecu, every signal being sent from ecu is intermittent and sporadic. the nissan datascan will only connect sometimes, before when it wasn't so bad i could connect nissan datascan use that to turn the pump on then start the engine. now when ever i do manage to connect and turn the pump off it will fire up for a second then shut off and loose connection with datascan.

i took the ecu apart and had a look, nothing looks melted or anything. gave the larger grounding points a light sand and added a good grounding wire to case ground it. no change. also with ignition in "on" if i move around the ecu the pump will sporadically turn on almost like a flutter its so fast.. any ideas?????? what are my options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434689-rb25neo-ecu-help/
Share on other sites

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

have you ruled out battery issues?

It sounds like a short somewhere, can you run a new wire just for test purposes between possible problem terminals? I once had a car where a wire had been damaged and was cut through the insulation/frayed where it passed through the firewall... (turned out it was the positive to the coils... :rolleyes: ) it was earthing out on the firewall itself.

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

yea i didnt over tighten the bolt. just until it bottemed out. but yea, theres definately a slight bend in the connection thats for sure. the center sits in deeper then the ends of the plug.. how would i fix this??

If there is any curvature in the ECU plug at all you could be in for a world of trouble with pins not contacting properly. It may have been abused in the past. Take the plug off and inspect each and every pin to ensure that they are all fully inserted into the back of the plug and latched in. Then take a look at the curvature of the plug and if there is a mm or more of bend in it consider getting another one from a wreck's loom and swap over. Check the ECU's socket pins too to make sure it's all kosher in there. A little twist or bend can prevent the plug from wanting to pull in. And when you assemble, use a great deal of mech sympathy. Don't just use the bolt to pull it in. Make sure you can assist/wiggle the plug in with your hand at the start and several times during the bolt up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...