Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well mitch if your looking at keeping your car for the long term then a zorst & set of extractors r a good start with a hiflow cat converter + with a little more power u might want to look into a lowering kit shockys & springs sway bars +

watch the rear control arm bushings they tend to wear out & split & you get free movement of the diff.

Ball joints/control arms on the front are another area to watch/check too if the car has been driven hard the ball joint shockets will have free play around the ball joint making it look like u have floged ball joints but is really the arms.

How ever the arms can be sorted with out new items being sorced by way of welding the ball joints in place I would not recommend this being done if you have the money get a set or one from the wrecker

Hope that helps mate

:rant: Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-890008
Share on other sites

Hi mitch94.. fancy bumping into you here :)

I'm the one that's been advising you on mods (and wheels) on the SVD forums :(

As far as "cheap" mods go, there are a lot around... but free ones, well.... air box mod is about the only "free" mod, provided you can find the bits you need for it.

(One tricky way of doing it is cutting a hole in the top of the air box, then swivelling it around to face forward)

Even something as simple as advancing the timing will probably end up costing you money, chances are good that if you advance the timing, it will cause the car to ping, and you will need to run premium instead of regular fuel.

The laws of physics say that "for every action, there is an equal but opposite re-action"

......in the land of cars, all that means is "if you want power, it's going to cost" :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-890709
Share on other sites

cheap to some can be $5 to $5000, and cheap can cost more in the long run, basics are the best,air induction,leads,plugs,extractors,exhaust or maybe handling shocks,springs, sway bars even a good set of tyres can make a world of difference! it all will cost $$$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-892098
Share on other sites

extractors are a nice upgrade.. and you can get them nice and cheaply 2nd hand. Just the other day i sold rsx84 above a set for $100, so that is a fairly cheap upgrade :)

My old R31 didn't have extractors or exhaust system, my current one does, and sounds and goes a noticeable amount better. Mainly the sound :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-897800
Share on other sites

put a manual gearbox in (seriously) $1000 on the cheap

Go to 16x7 or 16x8 or 17x7 wheels with good tyres. $500 - $5000

Good brake pads, good fluid $300 +

Suspension - $1000 - $5000 (lowerd springs, aftermarket shocks, swaybars, strut brace, strut tops)

Headwork, cam, chipped ecu - $2000

Depends what you mean by faster. If you mean "a tiny tiny bit faster in a straight line, which youll hardly notice" the do the exhaust, intake, wind the timing up. If you want to notice the increase but still be slow, do the head cam and chip.

If you want to make the car safer, faster through corners, on mountain runs, in time trials, and heaps more fun to drive - do the brakes and suspension. If you can afford to do brakes and suspension, and still have some $ to make it manual and up the power a little bit, do it.

Ive gone down the brakes/suspension path, with exhaust/intake/timing, and I am the quickest @ the Mt Cotton Driver training Centre time trials, mainly against R33 GTS-t's.

Leave the brakes and suspension stock, and no matter what you do to the motor, the car is still going to suck unless you are going straight ahead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-908440
Share on other sites

Aussie four door r31's have a tendancy to handle like a boat. Suspension is one thing I recommend. Extractors, Zorst and Pod do well. Keep your ignition system in good nic and it'll definately move better.

My r31 sits real high at the moment and handles like a Toyota Landcruiser. have to slow down for every corner. but it does help when i want to drive over things!

-jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-908492
Share on other sites

after about the 6th item it starts getting more expensive. A 2 1/2 exhaust might drone abit so you might have to get a resonator. Your going to have to spend some money to get good power out of an rb30e.

-K&N pod filter with CAI

-mandril bent 2 1/2 exhaust + high flow cat ( your old cat is probably dead )

-extractors ( you can get some 2nd hand for as little as $100 ) Pacemaker ones are one of the better brand extractors that you can get.

-advance the timing 20 degrees BTDC

-XF throttle body

-4.11 diff ratio

-Different cam - Nizpro= cam/lifters $770 ( might need a chip for the ecu )

-head port and polish - i think around $400

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43513-r31-first-car/#findComment-918659
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...