Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Team

No doubt this has been extensively covered previously, and I've had a look on other forums, however info seems to be conflicting as to what to do, how to do it etc.

I have just bought an R32 GTS-t.

Its done 130KM, and looks like the engine has never been removed before.

Im looking at pulling the engine out to do a full clean up (Engine and engine bay are quite dirty) so was looking to get some advice regarding this.

Firstly, is it easier to remove the engine with the gearbox attached or not? - I have done a couple of conversions previously, but I always went out the bottom as everything was being swapped over anyway. - I'm going to buy an engine hoist and stand so I can work on the engine, so I'm assuming leave the gearbox in the car? If someone can advise best way to go about it, would be great.

Secondly, the engine has done 130KM, and the cambelt was last done at 80KM in Japan, the engine seems to be running very well, so am on the fence about whether to rebuild it or not, seeing as I don't actually know the history of the engine. - Should I go ahead with a rebuild, and how far should I go?

Thirdly, I'm wondering if anyone can share their experiences with some basic mods I can do, with maximum bang for buck.. The car currently has a 3" cat back exhaust, weird FMIC (think its been put on in Japan, not very big) and an Apexi AVCR.

I know the main thing is to get a 3" dump and hi flow cat, but what else can I do to get some decent power, at minimum cost?

Also, thinking about an rb25 turbo, however is it truly bolt on swappable, or is there some modification to the water lines i need to do?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435264-rb20det-advicemodsrebuild/
Share on other sites

If it aint broke- dont fix it

Spend your money on changing fluids, cleaning/swap out any leaking gaskets /upgrade your exhaust to 76 mm / tune /25 turbo/service and your done

Hi Team, thanks for your advice! - Jiffo sent me a novel on what to do so thanks Jiffo for taking the time, -

I have given a complete service (Oil, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, Coolant Flush) and its running smooth, - I bought a few litres of degreaser and soaked the bay in it, hosed it off, and it came up a treat.

It does seem to have a coil pack issue, But as Jiffo advised, will start with a set of plugs and cleaning the coil packs.

Now on to the latest news - Funnily enough even though I just purchased this car, I have now also just purchased a 1996 Stagea with an Auto RB25DET (88000KM), and am looking at dropping the 25 into the GTS-t, and putting the 20DET into the stagea. Thoughts?

I know it sounds retarded putting an RB20DET into a Stagea, but the Stagea requires some body work before it can go back on the road, so it may not even get the 20DET, it may just be parted out (New thread in Stagea parts available possible later)

I've had a long search in regards to putting an Stagea AWD RB25DET into an R32, however most of the threads about GTS-4's, However I have seen that the sump needs to be modified? - I can't seem to find any details on this, does anyone know anyone that knows what they're doing when it comes to this? (Pics, Tutorials?) - Or alternatively, someone around Brisbane that can do it for me?

Apart from the sump, what else needs to be changed/modified? - Can i use the R32 engine ECU Harness on the 25DET (saves messing around with dash plugs)

Thanks Team

dont do it unless you want to seriously devalue the stagea, it may not even be registerable afterwards as you are putting an older motor into a newer car

Fair enough, I bought the Stagea for $1K. So will prob end up cleaning it up a bit, chucking some rego on it and selling it... Then with that coin go buy an r34 rb25, saves time messing around with the sump etc.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...