Jump to content
SAU Community

Ame Circlar Spec R

FWP.DynamiX

By FWP.DynamiX,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

FWP.DynamiX Rookie

FWP.DynamiX

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I have a set of AME Circlar Spec R (At least I believe they are Spec R when I compare them to a Spec R). I read that these wheels are discontinued and they usually have a polished barrel and a painted center. Mine are however all painted grey and I figure since they are supposed to be a 2 piece wheel, I should be able to disassemble them and maybe do some work to give them a new life.

Has anyone attempted to disassemble an AME Circlar?

I did a search on the forums but found nothing. There are youtube videos about disassembling wheels (BBS 3 pieces) but those seem to be obvious considering I can actually see the bolts that hold them together. But for the AME Circlar, there are no obvious bolts. Perhaps they are on the inside hidden away? If anyone could give me some insight, that'd be great. Otherwise, I guess I'll be doing a write-up on how to take these apart and how to give them a second wind.

Here's what they look like now. the picture isn't mine but it is basically the same thing.

2wqs804.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435767-ame-circlar-spec-r/
Share on other sites
R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

Posted
Posted

They're actually Enkei Circular GTA wheels. Single piece cast. You cant split them unfortunately. I had a set on my soarer years ago.

With Enkei 2/3 piece wheels you can undo all the bolts inside the rim and knock the centre out. I have a set of Enkei/ABC Exclusive wheels in the shed that were on my 33 for a while that need to be split and refinished, and you can quite easily see the bolts and nuts to split them.

Enkei also use a odd type of screw to hold their wheels together. Looks like a regular torx bit but actually has a different no. of teeth. I had to get the correct socket in from Germany as I couldn't find it anywhere in aus.

As for your wheels, you could try stripping the paint and polishing the lip and painting the centre, but I reckon you'd have a hell of a time getting between the spoke and the lip.

maybe blast them and get them powdercoated in colour you like. I have Enkei RPF1's on my 33 and that silver is really nice. Maybe match that colour?

Hope that helps somewhat.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

The AME Circular rims are a 2 piece wheel which have the centre welded to the rim lip with one long continuous weld on the inside face of the wheel and you cannot disassemble them.

The rim section is normally polished and then covered in clear coat. With time the clear coat gets a lot of tiny stone chips and water gets in under the clear coat and starts to corrode making them look crap. This is what happened to my Circulars and it took about 4 - 5 hours per rim to sand off the clear coat by hand with wet and dry sandpaper and then polish each rim.

I would suggest that this has happened to these rims sometime in the past and the previous owner has simply sand blasted them and painted them silver.

Looking back this is what I should have done to mine instead of wasting four days sanding and polishing them up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...