Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Was speaking with McFly regarding wheel alignment as to what works and what doesn't. Having the wrong alignment can cause all sorts of mayhem as it won't respond how you want it to. Now, taking that into consideration, different settings are used for different uses. Drag Racing would have settings primarily focussed on going forward whereas track work would factor in turning effectiveness. What I wanted to do was create a knowledge base here of what has worked for you guys. This way, people looking to change settings can easily see what has worked and what hasn't. If this takes off, we can ask Scott to sticky this :)

I guess this template would be the best way to go:

Car:

Suspension Mods:

Wheel size (Width and Diameter):

Camber:

Caster:

Toe:

Benefits and application:

Lets see what you guys have!

Cheers,

Tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435838-wheel-alignment-settings-what-works/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Was speaking with McFly regarding wheel alignment as to what works and what doesn't. Having the wrong alignment can cause all sorts of mayhem as it won't respond how you want it to. Now, taking that into consideration, different settings are used for different uses. Drag Racing would have settings primarily focussed on going forward whereas track work would factor in turning effectiveness. What I wanted to do was create a knowledge base here of what has worked for you guys. This way, people looking to change settings can easily see what has worked and what hasn't. If this takes off, we can ask Scott to sticky this :)

I guess this template would be the best way to go:

Car:

Suspension Mods:

Wheel size (Width and Diameter):

Camber:

Caster:

Toe:

Benefits and application:

Lets see what you guys have!

Cheers,

Tony

Car: R32 GTR

Suspension Mods: Crappy old Tein Coilovers, front and rear adjustable arms

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): 265 tyres 9.5 inch rims

Camber: +3 degrees front +1 rear

Caster: somewhere around 6 degrees

Toe: 0 at the front and about 1.5mm at the back

Benefits and application:

The benefits are reasonable handling while maintaining some form of tyre durability. Its sort of an all rounder setting, kind of ok for anything you throw at it.

  • Like 1

Car: R32 GTR

Suspension Mods: SK's package - Bilstien Shocks revalved, with 5 additional circlip marks, Eibach springs, Whiteline bushes, sway bars, Cusco upper control arms, tierods

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): 18 x 9.5 +12 (Tyres RSR's 255's)

Camber: Front LH -2.5 RH -2.5 - Rear LH -1.5 RH -1.5

Caster: LH +5.04. RH +4.15

Toe: Front LH +1.5 / RH +1.5 - Rear LH +2 RH +2

Setback: Front +00.02 - Rear +00.39

Track Difference: 00.08

Benefits and application:

I find light and responsive turning. Doesn't drift off towards the gutter. I use mainly Street (and some Track).

Would reduce camber if I wanted to reduce inner tyre wear.

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

What were your settings? They seemed to play nicely.

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

This is mega truth. Lower it too much and you end up with wierd geometry and a roll centre through the road surface somewhere.

If you want to leave the keys with me, we can do it whilst your away. Pretty sure that Mike's coming up for the Golf day.

Not sure any more mate sorry, looks like I'll be road tripping into cockroach country early that morning :unsure:

  • 3 weeks later...

Car: R34 GT-T Coupe

Suspension Mods: BC Coilovers, Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arms & Traction Rods, 24mm/22mm Whiteline Swaybars

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): F: 18x8.5+30&235/40 R:18x9.5+30&265/35

Camber: F: -1.0deg R:-0.5deg

Caster: 7deg

Toe: 0mm all round

Benefits and application: Longevity and looks :D Handles really well too

Edited by fusion07

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...