Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds to me like you're trying to set the rules according to what you've done to your car ;)

"Oh look... I don't have nitrous.... Therefore: Nitrous is cheating!!!!"

"Oh look... I'm only using radial tyres... Therefore: Cross-plys should be in another class!"

"Oh look... I'm using an auto box........................................ :Oops:"

-> Does that mean that you should be bumped into another class, away from the manual cars? :D

I'm chasing lower times. I'm not trying to satisfy some clown up in the commentary box or behind a desk at ANDRA... Who the hell is he to tell me what's right and what's wrong, and what's legal and what's cheating.

All I care about it that number that flashes up on the timing board at the end of the strip. I don't give a shit what you do to get there.

Sounds to me like you're trying to set the rules according to what you've done to your car ;)

"Oh look... I don't have nitrous....  Therefore: Nitrous is cheating!!!!"

"Oh look... I'm only using radial tyres... Therefore: Cross-plys should be in another class!"

"Oh look... I'm using an auto box........................................ :Oops:"  

-> Does that mean that you should be bumped into another class, away from the manual cars? ;)

I'm chasing lower times. I'm not trying to satisfy some clown up in the commentary box or behind a desk at ANDRA...  Who the hell is he to tell me what's right and what's wrong, and what's legal and what's cheating.  

All I care about it that number that flashes up on the timing board at the end of the strip. I don't give a shit what you do to get there.

I'm sort of a bit lost as to what this has to do with times ran on radial tyres Vs crossplys

As for the auto comment, yes to run a properly set up auto ie transbrake you can't run in the Sport RWD class which is what I wanted to run in though if you have to make posts like this to make yourself feel better about using Nitorus, its ok I understand :rofl:

The post was meant to illustrate that people are always trying to mold the class rules around what they have done to their car. It's pretty transparent really. You don't run cross-ply, so you don't want to compete against people running cross-ply tyres because they have an advantage over you. Makes sense doesn't it?

Same way that someone who runs 1 power adder doesn't want to compete against someone running 3 power adders. It all stems from what you have on your car, and you're trying to limit the allowed modifications so you're at the top of the field. People have been doing this for centuries in every kind of competitive setting.

I don't need to make myself feel better about using Nitrous, I've been using it for the past 6 years, I'm obviously fine about using it... But I'm over trying to educate people about it ;)

Respect a time I say.

..

Who cares how you do it. A fast time is a fast time isn't it?

As far as "street legal" goes - what a joke.

..

The way i look at it, the only people that complain about certain mods that other cars have, have slower cars. If you like your car & it pulls a time that makes you happy than who cares what others say..

Bingo! Couldn't agree more.

Its pretty simple...state ur mods done to ur car, include tyre choice.......show ur piece of toilet paper :D and if u've got half a brain u know who to compare urself to....even within a radial tyre theres everyday street / semi slicks / and drag radials....all i can gaurantee will give u different times.....so whether its cross ply or slicks..... no one is cheating! but u cant compare apples with oranges!

Holy crap, 11.32 in a M Roadster tell me more, and so im not whoring the thread does it use crossply or radial tyres?

Roy, M Coupe .. the M Roadster is the convertible version. Take a look at the Bavariacars website for more information (when Erik actually updates it!).

That ET was with BF Goodich Comp TA drag radials (street legal radial tyres). With street radials my best was 12.125 @ 132+ mph.

Yeh sorry M Coupe, an acquantance has one and whilst it is quick i wouldnt have thought there would be a hope in hell that it was that quick...but one of those turbo thingies no doubt helps!...interesting how they have to plumb the exhaust around to under the inlet to clear the exhasut side iner guard

And out of this whole crossply v radial thing...for the same given diam adn width which are typically cheaper?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...