Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, got an issue with my 32.

ATTESA reservoir currently looks like this:

a9KSWAE.jpg

I'm fairly sure the ATTESA pump is still working because it was about 1cm lower than the 'Min' mark, I turned the key to Accessory, I heard a buzzing and the fluid fell to about 2cm lower than the 'Min' mark.

So I topped it up, took it for a drive.

Did a few hard-ish launches on gravel and the rear kept sliding about. Front Torque gauge didn't move at all.

Checked ATTESA ECU, no flashing.

No AWD or HICAS lights on the dash.

Also have this strange 'pump' kinda thing in the driver's footwell. I have no idea what it does, nor does the previous owner.

CSUxjNn.jpg

3ZZulKJ.jpg

Any help would be great.

Very interesting Tom - hope someone knows what it is for.

Have you pushed it in to see what the effect is ?

Anything written on the side of the unit the wires run from ?

Some sort of crude launch control ?

Alright I'm an idiot. I didn't realise the ATTESA ECU doesn't flash unless the car is on Accessory.. :closedeyes:

11 Flashes, which seems to be: Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

I'm going to try the G-sensor fix posted by datsun_1600 and see how I go.

The pump has a sticker on it which says 'Apexera Co. Ltd' on it. 'Made in Taiwan'. And also an 'Open' and 'Close' up either end.

I've tried playing around with it but nothing seems to change. Might give it another go tomorrow morning.

Edit: I should also add the wires are for the cigarette lighters, but the end of the pump has a black cable that runs into the dash some place.

Edited by -Tom

hehe

If you end up needing another G Sensor try John at Trojan Motorsports (02) 62426277.

I recently bought a Tarzan G sensor from Nengun and replaced my perfectly good one. John bought it off me.

Apexera is the parent company of Apexi

Alright I'm an idiot. I didn't realise the ATTESA ECU doesn't flash unless the car is on Accessory.. :closedeyes:

11 Flashes, which seems to be: Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

I'm going to try the G-sensor fix posted by datsun_1600 and see how I go.

The pump has a sticker on it which says 'Apexera Co. Ltd' on it. 'Made in Taiwan'. And also an 'Open' and 'Close' up either end.

I've tried playing around with it but nothing seems to change. Might give it another go tomorrow morning.

Edit: I should also add the wires are for the cigarette lighters, but the end of the pump has a black cable that runs into the dash some place.

that "pump" would be adjustable flange to close up your exhaust

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-inch-Apexi-ECV-Exhaust-control-valve-/111172334333?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e26332fd#ht_57wt_1124

hehe

If you end up needing another G Sensor try John at Trojan Motorsports (02) 62426277.

I recently bought a Tarzan G sensor from Nengun and replaced my perfectly good one. John bought it off me.

Apexera is the parent company of Apexi

Thanks for that Richard. Will give him a call if my one turns out to be dead

Thanks that makes a lot of sense

  • 5 weeks later...

Just in case anyone comes across this thread in the future.

G sensor installed (was taken off an R32 GTS4, NOTE: R33 G sensor WILL NOT FIT). AWD fuse in the engine bay fuse box replaced.

And we have AWD again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...