Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys. Trying to sort out all this backfiring with my r33 gtst. Its a 95 series 1. Mods are a pod filter, previous owner added a turbosmart bleed valve, and apparently blew the stock turbo so added an upgraded (or high flowed, forgot what he said) turbo. Has a blitz bov on the piping, but its disconnected (no vac line) and was told its got a blocking plate on it which i may double check tomorrow, but the cars still running the stock recirc bov. The problems i am getting is the car sometimes backfires and can shoot flames after hitting boost and tapping the accelerator etc, and sometimes when i hit the throttle and come on boost it has two or three pops and loses power during those pops, like some sort of misfire. Also like many other people, the revs SOMETIMES drops below 500 or so then creep back up. Any ideas? Crappy plugs/ coils etc? Cheers. Ps the factory boost gauge says I'm doing around 5 pounds but the car pulls hard, would the gauge be reading correctly?cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436933-r33-gtst-backfiring-idle-drop-etc/
Share on other sites

ohh k lol thought it was psi ;P i feel dumb haha anyway. I am pretty sure still stock ecu, I think the guys basically blown the stock turbo, so went to just jap and told them to give him something better to bolt on! the blitx bov isnt doing anything atm and the stock bov is the operational bov and properly plumbed so thats sorted. and yea hopefully soon will get a tune, any suggestions on a piggyback etc? power fc? ive heard mixed things on many piggybacks to use, whats got the best proven results on my car (r33 gtst)? thanks alot guys!

PowerFC is the only easy/cheap way to do what you want. Nistune is more than capable of handling that power level, but you can't put a Nistune board into a crappy R33 ECU - you have to find a Z32 or R32 ECU and then there are small problems you have to work around. Not worth the pain if you're not already up to speed with it.

So, PowerFC it is.

And, FWIW, don't drive it around on higher than 10 psi with the stock ECU. Bad shit will happen.

ok cool thx. so if the boost guage is reading 5mhgh or whatever it is, is that ok? or should i give the bleed valve a few clicks lower for safety? whats a good price a power fc can be picked up for? i want to find one at a good price so i can then take it to a tuner to install and tune etc. cheers for all the help!

PowerFC is the only easy/cheap way to do what you want. Nistune is more than capable of handling that power level, but you can't put a Nistune board into a crappy R33 ECU - you have to find a Z32 or R32 ECU and then there are small problems you have to work around. Not worth the pain if you're not already up to speed with it.

So, PowerFC it is.

And, FWIW, don't drive it around on higher than 10 psi with the stock ECU. Bad shit will happen.

I presonally wouldn't touch a PowerFC, they may be cheap, but they're cheap for a reason. People want ECUs that can offer better features, such as doing something if the engine knocks.

true. well maybe for my needs an fc is all thats needed. also, seeing that only real performance mods atm are bigger turbo and bleed valve (will be replaced with ebc soon) when i get an ecu and tune, whats a good boost/ power I can sit at with stock internals, injectors etc? thx guys!

The problem mentioned is not very related to a ECU, Such as the back firing, the down revving under throttle and etc. Those are more related to the differences in the volume of air that the engine had to what the AFM might have sensed.

If aftermarket ecu is on the list, I recommend Adaptronic Plug in R33 ECUs. Plenty of functions and cheaper then most of other options around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...