Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Missed out on the cheap price for the SS, stupid Mark not getting all his personal administration in order, oh well, It will still be awesome x1 million.

Also painted side mirrors satin black to match the roof, why you may ask, because I had some paint and was bored.

Thanks for the links.

The main problem is there is nowhere for the air to exit, most (all) cars have some form of venting built into them, alas the MX5 is designed like a parachute when fitted with a hard top, I will get some MX5 dash vents from the wreckers and install them at the rear of the parcel shelf, I will then duct it out the back and have it exit on the passenger side utilising the little tool bin thingy in the boot.

Im guestimating that it is a low pressure area so air should be sucked out whilst driving.

2 each of these bits, just need a hole saw to suit and some balls to do it.

Installed where I drew the boobies.

post-52431-0-53928800-1393917503_thumb.jpg

post-52431-0-64856400-1393917619_thumb.jpg

post-52431-0-26822600-1393918432_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

After nearly being rear ended whilst sitting at traffic lights I took a idea that my mate did to his car, I fitted a flasher unit to my boot lid brake light.

Hopefully a flashing red light might catch the eye of the next idiot who isn't paying attention when driving.

Fitted Sparco 4 point, fitted fixed seat, fitted fire extinguisher, bled brakes, emptied glove box, checked all fluids and oils and removed floor mats.

Race prep done for Sunday, LOL

After a round at Wakefield the Silver Slug has showed a few failings, the diff is garbage and single pegging, looking at a KAAZ 1.5 to sort this out, the RE002 are not good either so some Semi's will be looked at after the diff is done.

Brakes held up fine so no dramas there.

Very small engine leak discovered, only very minor but I threw in some NULON stop leak to hopefully soften up the gaskets and get them sealing better, then I found out it might be the power steering leaking at a connection which I will attempt to tighten later, the leak only turns up on the track.

Trying to decide if I want to get another motor to rebuild over time or just get the one in it done. nothing overly major, basic bottom end rebuild with better rods, all balanced, head rebuilt and shaved to up compression a bit, some cams and a ECU so everything talks nicely, and not a turbo in sight.

I also want a Ishift for it so I don't have to keep looking at the tacho.

After turboing 3 mx-5's, i wouldn't bother doing anything with the motor except a turbo, the first b6 na went from 58rwkw to 165 with no internal mods, and was thrashed daily for 6 months till it was written off, and the b8's respond even better. How do you find the chassis stiffness, the last one i did we fitted a full butterfly brace, and it seemed stiff as.

I don't have a problem with the stiffness of the chassis.

As for turbo's, been there done that, not interested, yes I know you can make easy power with a turbo but I would have to rebuild it anyway to get some form of reliability.

Owning the 5 is not about making big power, if I wanted big power I would put a turbo on it after a rebuild and make 1??kw or 13BT it and make well over 300kw or a big lazy V8, but if I end up making 90ish KWATW and can daily it and run some super sprints and its reliable for a few years I will be happy.

As for power, a member is making 94ish atwkw in his 5 and doing 1.11's at Wakie, learning to drive it properly and set up will assist me in smoking cars with twice my power around the track, I learnt my lesson with my old Skyline that lots of power = lots of hassles when it comes to reliability and the amount of money spent on consumables like gearbox's, tyres and brakes and everything else that comes from running a motor hot and hard.

Plus I'm only in it for some fun and the only times I want to beat are my own.

But this is what it would look like if won LOTTO >

post-52431-0-73156700-1396083084_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
    • Did you hit up the search function? R33 and greddy and cable returns this thread with some options.   https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
    • Thanks buddy.. the standard one needs to be about another inch or inch and a half longer. Thanks anyway
×
×
  • Create New...