Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, we have fitted a Performance Metalcraft upgraded GTR sump without removing the engine.  It took a (long) day for 2 guys to do on the hoist.  It has raced on every circuit in NSW and a few in Vic since it was done.  I have not seen any oil pressure movement on the data log in over 2 years.  :)  

www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

SK, what's the retail on the PMC sump kit? Also how do you reckon it compares to the trust kit (which comes with extension, baffle and new pick-up)?

Cheers,

Richard

SK, what's the retail on the PMC sump kit? Also how do you reckon it compares to the trust kit (which comes with extension, baffle and new pick-up)?

Cheers,

Richard

You will have to ask PMC, I really have no idea what they charge.

The Trust kit is very simple, it extends the sump downwards (reduces ground clearance) and has an extended pick up and a cylindrical baffle. It increaaes oil capacity by ~1.25 litres. The PMC sump we use has wings (so it does not reduce ground clearance) out both sides with one way doors and baffles. It does not need an extended pick up. It increases oil capacity by a bit over 2 litres.

In funtion there is really no comparison, a winged and baffled sump is by far a superior solution. Hope that helps :)

just letting you know i know the boys at PMC have been making these sump kits for quite some time a couple of years and have never heard a bad thing about them. CRD highly recomends them as well, i've personally seen seem them fitted to almost stock GTR's to a 1200HP street GTR getting set to malaysia.

we too have one fitted to our GTR as well.

the kit is a work of art go and see leone at PMC down at euston st rydlemere.

same place as hi octane,different people.

great blokes!

  • 7 months later...

Hi all,

Just thought I would provide an update on the Accusump fitted to the car. Its been in for around 6 months now and have had plenty of track days since then.

In that time I have not had any problems with oil pressure on or off the track.

One of the side benefits of the system is that because the canister hold oil under constant pressure, and it releases its oil into the engine when it senses any oil pressure drop, you get oil pressure even before the engine starts.

Turn the ignition to "on", the system senses no oil pressure so it starts releasing oil providing oil pressure for start up. For this reason I leave mine on at all times.

There is a manual switch version usually used in race cars and an electric switch version (the one I am using) which can be turned on and off.

Ultimately I will move to a proper race sump such as SK has advocated, but until then this has been pretty good.

DANOOH,

Originally I looked everywhere. Was going to bring on ein from the States.

Ended up getting it from Performance Wholesale http://www.performancewholesale.com.au/

I don't know who else stocks them, but surely others must.

Cheers

  • 1 year later...
DANOOH,

Originally I looked everywhere. Was going to bring on ein from the States.

Ended up getting it from Performance Wholesale http://www.performancewholesale.com.au/

I don't know who else stocks them, but surely others must.

Cheers

I know this is an old post but besides purchasing the 3qt. Accusump what else is needed to install this on my GTR lump in my S14 silvia? What electric valve unit to use, and mounting kit as well? I will like to order this asap for my build, I don't want anything to give problems after install and have to drop the engine and box.

Edited by TriniGT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...