Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today when I was coming back from work my power steering just stopped working suddenly. The HICAS light also turned on a few moments later. It is a r32 gtst with a rb25deneo . Checked the fuses and power steering fluid and it all seems fine. I turn the car on and drive for a few seconds before the power steering gives way. So initially the power steering works when I turn on the car.I took it around the block a few times and the hicas light didn't turn on ( was only driving for a couple of minutes at a time). I put on a aftermarket steering wheel on a week ago but never had this problem. What could it be ?

The aftermarket steering wheel is the problem

Unless it accomodates the steering wheel angle sensor the hicas aint gunna like it. .when I got my R32 gtst the hicas light was on ... the(stock) steering wheel had been taken off but when it was put back on the dot on the column and dot on the back of the wheel werent lined up... . Lined them up.. reset ecu, no light

Some race day guys just cancel the power steering. With the old rack. Steering feels like a go cart but its fine, not that much of a difference. No more leak problems and sensor crap anymore.

The aftermarket steering wheel is the problem

Unless it accomodates the steering wheel angle sensor the hicas aint gunna like it. .when I got my R32 gtst the hicas light was on ... the(stock) steering wheel had been taken off but when it was put back on the dot on the column and dot on the back of the wheel werent lined up... . Lined them up.. reset ecu, no light

there is only one way you can put the boss kit on to line it up with the horn clip. I never took the lines off the hicas bar when the changed the diff i only took the two bolts off. Like i said, the when i start it it initally works but then stopped after driving down the street. i might need to do a diagnostic test on my ecu. my mechanic who even put the engine in didnt really have a clue really

  • 2 weeks later...

OMFG just spent the whole f**king day trying to swap over the pump and guess what...IT DIDNT DO JACK SHIT!!WHAT A WASTE OF 6 HOURS AND $160!!! ANYONE HAVE ANY MORE IDEA'S? I cant be any clearer, it works when i start the car and drive it for 10-20 second...i can turn the car on and leave it on idle forever and the power steering will work...but it stops after driving...the HICAS light comes on after about a minute or 2 when the power steering stops working.

i had enough of these jdm's man...too many headaches and its making my wallet empty!!

Did you do the hicas diag?

alright the HICAS light comes on, then 4 quick flashes before the HICAS light stays back on, then 2 quick flashes then the light stays on, then 1 quick flash before it stays on again. It repeats this and you can hear knocking noises coming from the back of the car.

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • 4 weeks later...

Unplug the smaller plug from the HICAS computer and see how you go.

alright, i did that, and the power steering worked for a few seconds before shutting off like usual. Could it be that the smaller plug has gone and needs re wiring?

Doubt it's the plug. Take the HICAS computer out and have a look inside, there might be a loose screw or bad solder joints or something. Mine randomly craps out and it's pretty annoying. Makes me wish I bought an R33 GT-R :(.

My car does this some times if I don't warm it up enough. when I come up to a stop the power steering stops, HICAS comes on and it try's to stall and a banging from sound comes from somewhere it's got me f***cked what it is.

Doubt it's the plug. Take the HICAS computer out and have a look inside, there might be a loose screw or bad solder joints or something. Mine randomly craps out and it's pretty annoying. Makes me wish I bought an R33 GT-R :(.
i already tried putting in a working hicas comp and the same thing happened. Maybe it's the hicas position sensor behind the steering wheel?

And Dylan, that noise might be the diff because when I do hicas diagnostic the noise comes from the diff Edited by IM-32-FK

i know its got something to do with the speedo because i read it on other forums. Like i said the speedo doesnt work anymore as well. I had to get a custom speed cable because its a neo in a r32. I took the cluster off and the needle behind the speedo wasnt snapped or anything, but i dont how its supposed to operate when its working and when its not. Someone please point me in the right direction

Edited by IM-32-FK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...