Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Breaks Issue

R34GTTM8

By R34GTTM8,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34GTTM8 Apprentice

R34GTTM8

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

I'm having an issue with my breaks. When im just crusiing everything it appears the breaks don't come all the way up and i have to press them in a little harder than normal to engage the break. I took it to the mechanic and he said no break fluid was pumping through its a faulty master cyclinder.

So i paid him and he replaced it.

Since replacing it when i break sometimes the break has no response and falls straight to the floor i then need to pump it to get it to engage again. It has been bled twice and the mechanic cannot find the fault apparently it's fine when obviously i know it's not. It doesnt matter if the car is hot or cold it happens randomly.

This rarely happens anymore however im scared ill rear end someone or hurt myself/someone else.

Any idea's what it could be? Checked air pockets etc to make sure all ok but im stumped. The mechanic has driven it for 5 days without it having the issue and i need my car back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437727-r34-gtt-breaks-issue/
Share on other sites
Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

As a GTT I assume that the car has ABS.

There are bleed nipples on the master cylinder and on the ABS Unit that also have to be bled. I found this out on my GTR - bled the brakes and there was still air in the lines and the brakes were spongy big time.

The fact that it is not a consistent problem is a concern - one of my cars had a dodge bleed nipple on a rear calliper that would leak some times and at other times be fine.

I would be getting a second opinion from a brake specialist who I could trust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...