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Selling our project Nissan Skyline R34, Giving it away for $4400ono. ( front end parts with driveline worth this)

1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T turbo coupe rolling shell.
101kms
Cannot be registered in Australia, it is a statutory write off was a stolen and recovered vehicle in N.S.W.
has 300zx wide turbo wheels on the front
r32 gtst rear wheels
Original Turbo Manual model
Body complete front bonnet bumper XENON Headlights guards reo doors boot tail lights rear bar etc all in good condition
Driveline has LSD Full Brakes in great working order big brakes in front and rear. has original cross member still in place with power steering untouched,
full great interior with original airbags, steering wheel, gauges, cluster Seats front and rear in great condition, all interior is complete, barrel has been damaged when it was stolen previously.

Car has been bought back outright from the insurance company. its listed as a statutory write off so it cannot be ever registered in AUS. An absolute great parts car you can build two cars from all these parts, but even better would be great with an engine put in it a v8 1uz conversion or an sr20det manual thrown into it, would make agreat drift car, just throw a half cut into it or a motor and box, some work and bits and pieces and you have yourself a unique track animal, alot better and unique compared to a s13 or r32 skyline at the track.

The 34 is missing the engine, ecu and loom, exhaust and its also missing the manual gearbox kit (tail shaft, pedals, slave and clutch master cylinders) everything else is all there and hooked up, also has a complete aircon kit with compressor lines and condenser left in it. just the engine and manual conversion parts have been taken out of it, the car is complete otherwise and rolling. hasnt been sitting for long at all, we also have a rb25det neo + ECU + loom with a suspected blown headgasket, missing a turbo we can supply with the car for an extra $900.

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    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
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