Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, new to the site and new to the import world.

I've had my r33 gtst for about 4 good months now, have had no problems with it at all until now.

So the story goes i was casually driving along and I noticed the hicas light flickering on and off and losing power steering also, i continued driving as I wasn't far from getting where I needed to go. As I started accelerating again it wouldn't respond sounded as if it was over fueled/ flooded. I basically pulled over turned it off left it for about halve an hour, went back battery was dead.

Soo. The next day I replaced the battery as I noticed the battery I had in was pretty old. Drove fine for the past two day until this afternoon where it seems to be doing the same thing again? I don't know much about these cars and am wondering if anyone else has experience the same problem and can point me in the right direction of diagnosing the problem?

Thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439262-help-please/
Share on other sites

HICAS problems shouldnt affect the engine/engine ECU so perhaps you have a bigger problem?

Have you done anything at all to the car recently? did tthe battery cable look O.K? If its a standard ECU can you get any fault codes out of it?

Sounds like more than one issue here, and I would look at whatever is causing the engine issue first as if its something electrical it may be shared with the HICAS ECU and fixing it will fix both problems

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439262-help-please/#findComment-7202247
Share on other sites

It's currently completely stock. Other than the battery I haven't touched a thing on it.

The battery cables looked fine no visual signs of a bad connection.

I just went to put it back in the driveway and it took longer to crank as if the battery is dead again. Would you think if the battery is low on power again it could affect the ecu's functions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439262-help-please/#findComment-7202260
Share on other sites

Altenator? Yeah that'll do it, R terminal wire dodgy means the altenator would not have been charging properly or at all

figured it must have been a general electrical issue for 2 systems to be playing up like that

Easy fix, good to hear :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439262-help-please/#findComment-7202568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...