Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Ive got a few concerns about my R32 Gts-t.

First of all, im unsure but I think my Spark Plugs are due for a change. The reason I say that is due to me having a few starting issues after the car has been sitting in the garage over night. But Ill get to that in a minute.

Sp back to the spark plugs, My Car is a standard R32 gts-t. I belive im running stock boost (havnt checked) and im guessing everything else is pretty standared.

The car apparently had its 100,000k service and im lead to belive this was done at 106,000 .. im unsure if EVERYHTING was changed in this service, but im 99% sure the timing belts were done as they look new, and im guessing the Spark Plugs were changed at this time.

The car now has about 115,000 on the clock, and I have serviced it twice during that time, (Last service was done at 114,500 and that inculded just an oil and oil filter change)

So im guessing the spark plugs are due for a change as they would have posibly been in the car for 10,000k's if they were changed in the service done at 106,000.

Now with that all aside, im unsure what plugs are best for my car, keep in mind that im apparently running stock turbo and boost.

Now ive been doing some looking all accross the forum and i've heard all different comments on which plugs to run, and i've basically come up with these options.

* Ngk PFR6A

* Ngk PFR5A (NGK platinum)

* Ngk BCPR5E or (BCRP5E-11) --- Apparenly good If i drive like a grandma.

* Ngk BCPR6ES --- Possibly the most common suggested?

However rb20det.net says...

* Ngk Standard PFR5A-11 (1.1mm gapped)

* Ngk Iridium plugs T7341T-8 (0.8mm gapped)

So with all these options, im feeling a little lost.. and especially when talking about gapping plugs!.

I was originally thinking the "Ngk BCPR6ES" sounded to be the one that standard out the most, however lets be honest. I do give the car a bit of a hit every now and then. Well ok maybe more like once a day :D

So what im askign is, with ALL the information provided, which do you think woulds the most suitable for my car.?

Thanks in advanced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

BCPR6ES are a great plug for the price ($3)... They will suit standard boost fine and will take the occasional thrashing... You may possibly be able to run the standard 1.1mm gap depending on the health of your coils and the boost pressure your using...

The PFR*A's will work fine but are a platinum plug so budget around $20 per plug... The advantage is they will last up to 100,000 k's as opposed to the BCPR's which are copper and should be changed every 10,000 - 15,000 k's...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-898817
Share on other sites

Another vote for the BCPR6ES. However the NGK V-Power (Grooved electrode) are arguably the best plug they make, and its usully the same price. Code number? BCPR6E or BKR6E is your poison!

I dont think spending the extra on plats/iridiums are justified IMO. One tank of octane booster etc ruins em! Dont get the 5 heat range plugs. Not needed. Stick with 6 as suggested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-898865
Share on other sites

Hmm so it sounds like i was on the right track..

Yeah i was going to stick with the copper plugs.

This V grooved model.. why is it better then the other model?

which also leads me to my next question, how do i know what gapping i have to run.

I know nothing about gapping plugs..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-898935
Share on other sites

riceline, stock heat range is 6. 5 is a 'hotter plug', and you use this if your 6 range is prone to fouling, but it shouldnt under normal driving conditions. So I dont know why anyone would go to 5 unless somethins wrong. People like to go one step colder (7) like I have once the mods start compounding up. NGK say that you go one step colder for every extra 60hp you add to a motor. But I think 7s is good enough for most modded cars, 8s for cars with _alot_ of power. All it does is make sure the plug dont overheat under lots of boost become a potential source of detonation. More info on NGK's site.

V-Grooved models seem to have better ignitability. I could run bigger gaps w/o misfire with V-Power plugs compared to Platinums but your mileage may vary. They're cheap and you cant go wrong.

If you're completely stock, just stick to stock gapping which I believe is 1.1mm. Otherwise close it down to 0.9mm if you have misfiring problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-899163
Share on other sites

Cool thanks for that..

Im 99% sure im pretty stock, sapart from what appears to be a factory upgraded exhaust. Im not sure what turbo i have on it or what pound im running. but to me im strongly guessing its stock.

So in the end I think the 2 plugs that stand out the best are..

* BCPR6ES

* NGK V-Power

And from what you are saying, the the V-power (V-Grooved) is the same as the BCPR6ES, however it is slighly better because it contans this V-Grooved Technology, which allows you to run bigger gaps.??

Now speaking of Gaps, I have no idea about them, how they work or what. So any information about this and how to do it would be really help full.

Thanks for your support so far..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-899596
Share on other sites

Pistol Pete - Thanks for that .. Im going to get my mate to help me when I change my plugs as he has done it a few times this month on his Cars, I personally have never changed plugs on a skyline let alone gapped any of them. Thanks for thinfo (that goes to everyone)

I think i might take a shot at it tommorow and i'll let you know how i go.

Adrian - Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43983-spark-plugs/#findComment-900028
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...