Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was previously thinking about rebuilding my twin plate pull nismo clutch so i put up a thread on that and everyone offered suggestions so i called the shops up for their opinion

jim berry suggested i go with a single plate pull clutch which would hold the power with increase in clamping force

npc and direct could rebuild my twin plate

these options cost between 1100-1600ish

i believe i can also get a new os giken twin for around $2000 and then either use the push/pull converter or do a bellhousing swap

just was wondering what everyones opinion is on which route i should take

car is a weekend car and will go cruising etc but in saying that, i can live with a 'race' clutch with heavier pedal and bitey pick up point

What car ? 500kw in a GTS-t is massively different to 500kw in a GTR

GTS-t rebuild your twin plate, if its shot

GTR go a hi-torque triple plate, which you can do if you have the Exedy "Nismo" twin by rebuilding it with triple plate centres

We went Jim Berry for less than you quoted, 5700Lbs clamp single plate, 5 or 6 puck for 600Kw in a GTR with a 26/30 street/drag build.

Jim has a few 9 second and quicker cars running them without issues.

Talk to him about your needs, driving style and power/torque levels, let him know what you will be doing with the car and listen to his suggestion.

The man knows his stuff, just be prepared to spend at least an hour on the phone with him, one thing his not short of is customer care.....

  • GTRPSI: yea i spoke briefly with him as i know he is always busy and i didnt want to waste his time as i wasnt sure if i would buy his clutch or not. youre not wrong though bout customer service!

with that clamping load, how is the pedal feel?? extremely heavy?

do you know what friction material is in yours? and what is the take off like?

i dont flat change or dump/kick the clutch at all

through a kazz 2 way and 19x10.5 rear wheels and i believe 245/35/19s

before the clutch slip, i had no traction issues at all in 2nd and above once the tyres were warm

Edited by eXquiSit

Carbonetics friction.

We are getting ready to fit it, we just ballanced the pressure plate and flywheel, the clutch plate has a sprung center.

We made it clear to Jim that the car had to still be streetable, albeit rarely, our concern was holding up at the 1/4 mile, as mentioned he has made a few of these for street driven GTRs in the 9's and they are holding up well.

However one thing you need to consider or pass onto Jim is how much power your intending to push through it and how you will drive it.

If he advises a lower clamp load, go with it, we have a 5700 Lbs pressure plate, after bed in he said it will settle at 5400 Lbs, im currently modifying our crank main thrust bearing for extra oiling to help with the higher clamp loads we will be putting on the mains thrust.

Ideally with these higher powered builds and high clamp load plates you want a dog box, clutch to only be used on take off.

Lower clamping loads means you wont have to mod your thrust bearing, but the issue is with high tourque you cannot run a normal box, you could try but i dont know for how long it would hold up with those sorts power figures, going by others id say you better start looking for a stronger gear box, its the next weak link......

Edited by GTRPSI

yea i am doing my best not to abuse the box by quick shifting, clutch kicking, burnouts, etc.

regarding clamp loads, if it is a twin plate, it shouldnt need as high a clamp load to hold the same torque right?

Carbonetics friction.

We are getting ready to fit it, we just ballanced the pressure plate and flywheel, the clutch plate has a sprung center.

We made it clear to Jim that the car had to still be streetable, albeit rarely, our concern was holding up at the 1/4 mile, as mentioned he has made a few of these for street driven GTRs in the 9's and they are holding up well.

However one thing you need to consider or pass onto Jim is how much power your intending to push through it and how you will drive it.

If he advises a lower clamp load, go with it, we have a 5700 Lbs pressure plate, after bed in he said it will settle at 5400 Lbs, im currently modifying our crank main thrust bearing for extra oiling to help with the higher clamp loads we will be putting on the mains thrust.

Ideally with these higher powered builds and high clamp load plates you want a dog box, clutch to only be used on take off.

Lower clamping loads means you wont have to mod your thrust bearing, but the issue is with high tourque you cannot run a normal box, you could try but i dont know for how long it would hold up with those sorts power figures, going by others id say you better start looking for a stronger gear box, its the next weak link......

yea i am doing my best not to abuse the box by quick shifting, clutch kicking, burnouts, etc.

regarding clamp loads, if it is a twin plate, it shouldnt need as high a clamp load to hold the same torque right?

That's right as it has twice the friction surface area and some depending on the clutch plate JB uses

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...