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Do some research online Zy and get a well recommended dinosaur guy to do it. They get good power from the old stuff and there is nothing new in engine technology.

What do you need? Rebore and hone? O Rings? Balance? Full clean out of the block and the crank? Put it all together?

Seriously, there is nothing a "Jap" engine builder can do any better or different, and they tend to charge more. All the info you need is on this website for finding the parts etc.

Remove and replace engine - $1500-2000 (less if you or your mate can do this)

Labour involved in the actual stripping down the engine, and putting it back together again - $1500-4000 (depends where you go)

Head service - $500

plus any extra machining, and all parts you want to replace.

Funny that!, we were also thinking about the next step for the GTR, as the 320kw at the rears is starting to bore me. My tuner said you can pick up brand new N1 motors from japan for around 10K.. but then there are varying models.

Do you buy a new N1 motor or spend the dosh on an engine rebuild?? I know what Blitz is saying "how long is a piece of string?" but if you were looking to hold a reliable ~700hp at the motor (~450-500kw at the wheels) on an RB26 would need to go the whole hog with cranks, blocks, etc ?? And does anyone have an "estimate" if this were the case?

Funny that!, we were also thinking about the next step for the GTR, as the 320kw at the rears is starting to bore me. My tuner said you can pick up brand new N1 motors from japan for around 10K.. but then there are varying models.  

Do you buy a new N1 motor or spend the dosh on an engine rebuild?? I know what Blitz is saying "how long is a piece of string?" but if you were looking to hold a reliable ~700hp at the motor (~450-500kw at the wheels) on an RB26 would need to go the whole hog with cranks, blocks, etc ?? And does anyone have an "estimate" if this were the case?

Just buy the N1 block, for extra strength, and rebuild it with all new forged parts. Perhaps an HKS 2.8 stroker or JUN 2.7 stroker...

No point in buying an entire N1 engine... the internals won't hold 700hp for very long.

I think you should just stick with the GT2530s though... If you shoot for that higher figure, the car will be really sluggish until about 5000-5500rpm and won't be fun to drive unless you're thrashing it 100% of the time...

Was speaking to a guy that does this on a daily basis..

He said around $3-4k labour all up - what it cost a lot isn't slapping the thing together but pulling it out and putting it back in the engine bay that cost the moolah due to the complexity of things. He just slapped something along the line:

* forgies

* rods

* N1 oil pump

* N1 water pump

* new gaskets/seals/bearings

* new timing belt

Plus quite a few bits I forgot (it was windy yesterday so I didn't pay a lot of attention..) all up just under $11k supplied, fitted and tuned.

My car is going in on Saturday and I should get it back in 2-3 weeks :)

I'm not going to publically list everything I'm doing, but it's basically a full engine strip, blueprinting and balancing, and rebuild from the ground up using uprated parts everywhere except for the crank.

Mainly for reliability for circuit work, than to hold the power, I won't be making that much with the GT-SS turbos...

NOS? :Oops:

5-6k Engine recon, head and bottom end, forgies, including $600 to pull out/put in engine.

2k to recond turbos, bearing/seal kits.

$650 new clutch and $150 new radiator.

Said to expect to pay $8-10k with all of this done... Yikes!

Scary how these costs build up on top of one another.

Guys stop whoring the thread hey.

Zy that sounds reasonable for the job, but I always like to get people to think on the DIY side. All that labour (you are looking at under 2K parts, arias forgies for the RB25 were 1300 overnite and I threw in GTR rods for the hell of it, and more redline)

Obviously the turbo work is a hand over and get 'em back good, but a chainblock will cost $150 and an engine stand $300 then get the tools for the job and future tasks for about $500 and you are set for life. TAFE courses in the subject of mechanics and engine building are pretty handy as well. My welding needs some polish so I am back to TAFE for a refresher.

That feeling of DIY when you kick her over the first time still gets me and I am a mechanic with a mechanical engineering degree, but it is not hard, you just need to be precise and use checklists. First time rebuild I had no manuals so had to work out the torque settings myself, but the army taught me to be a rapid combat repair mechanic so when I got the manuals i found I was almost spot on, within 5 Nm for the big ends and perfect for the cams etc.

Mesh. I reckon I'll get about 320rwkw when the PFC finally goes in and is tuned so the GTR will need that upgrade. I am shopping for a new turbo tho......

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