Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i bought a garrett gt3582r as part of a turbo kit for my r33 gtr with the .82 rer housing. The turbo i have comes with the 2.5inch 4 bolt exhuast outlet. I have noticed the gt3582r also comes with the 3 inch v band exhuast outlet. Does this 3 inch vband actually just taper up to 3 inch and offer better performance or is the outlet actually bigger than my turbos outlet?

Edited by asps91
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440696-gt3582r-exhaust-housing/
Share on other sites

Best turbine performance/efficiency is achieved by the biggest pressure drop across the turbine.

Consider that the distance from turbine blade to the 4 bolt flange face is ~50ish mm, and that measurement would not vary significantly whether you are talking 2.5 or 3 inch outlet. The diameter of the outlet will be the same at the exit of the turbine rotor, so the difference is the rate of expansion available over 50ish mm to where the exhaust dump pipe bolts up. I'd suspect the difference won't be enough to be concerned about in most instances.

Sure the 3 inch outlet version should be a technically better option, but the question is what are you using the car for, what is the target power output (airflow considerations), and what dump pipe design are you using? 4 inch dump is a pretty massive thing that might pose difficulties in fitting all the pipework into available space. 3 or 3.5 inch will perform very well and far easier to fit down past the firewall.

I'd be making sure that your dump uses a shoulder section to give rapid size change from the turbine outlet to whatever dump pipe diameter you choose. That should assist with ensuring best pressure drop across the turbine.

im looking to make close to 400kw on e85 through my rb26. The 4 inch dump fits up perfectly. The cars going in for a tune tommorow and was not sure if i was wasting my time with the turbo i have. I rang GCG turbos to find out about a to4z compressor wheel conversion and they told me not to bother with the 2.5 inch exhuast housing as it just wont make the power but i found it a little hard to beleive as i had a feeling the outlet was the same at the wheel on the 3 inch v-band and the 2.5 4 bolt. This confirms it :)

Asking GCG anything is possibly not the best idea.

You could easily get that power from a 3 inch dump if you are talking about an externally gated setup. I doubt the turbine outlet size is a worry.

The T04R wheel that gets used in those "GT35/T04Z conversions is not exactly a modern wheel and I think a decent billet compressor would do better .

You could have a V band adapter machined up and welded to your housing to create a 3" or larger outlet on the same cone angle as the housing .

A .

Asking GCG anything is possibly not the best idea.

You could easily get that power from a 3 inch dump if you are talking about an externally gated setup. I doubt the turbine outlet size is a worry.

Yea, ive gathered that haha. I am externally gated ;) Cant wait for the tune tommorow!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...