Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I assume you are talking internal gate housings Angelo? Most setups I have seen hold nicely near spring pressure, as you try and bleed them up it can all go to crap due to manifold pressure.

It's not such a bad thing to drop a little boost in the top end, the engine is ingesting a lot of air up there and boost is only a measure of the engines lack of airflow. Why overspin the compressor when most of the time it is just producing hotter air...

A larger turbo and or housing will always help top end flow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7233284
Share on other sites

I'm running a gt3076 on a rb25 manifold with a 38mm external gate welded off it. It does not spike at all but in the top end it drops from 19psi to 16,15 psi.

I'm using a blitz sbs dual solenoid ebc.

Might need to test for a boost leak !

But if any other ideas come to mind on what it could please let me know !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7233908
Share on other sites

I don't think there is a housing which will cause that issue - when I had a .63 housing on mine I struggled to keep it UNDER that boost level, it was hitting 20psi by 5700rpm and trying to climb hard. The only reason the turbo itself would not be able to hold boost (assuming it's healthy) is if it is struggling to keep up with the airflow requirements of that engine at that boost level. Even a .63 GT3076R shouldn't have issues, really the compressor and turbine should be able to hold 20+psi "all in" so if it's not holding, it will be something to do with the setup - wastegate/boost controller/boost leak/exhaust leak/something...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7234226
Share on other sites

I'm running a gt3076 on a rb25 manifold with a 38mm external gate welded off it. It does not spike at all but in the top end it drops from 19psi to 16,15 psi.

I'm using a blitz sbs dual solenoid ebc.

Might need to test for a boost leak !

But if any other ideas come to mind on what it could please let me know !

Pressure test the intake by all means.

What spring are you using in the wastegate?

Are you using a MAC valve to hold the gate closed also?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7234355
Share on other sites

No, you just need to sort out your boost control. Shouldn't be too difficult to work out.

Just slapping an electronic controller won't make a 4psi spring hold 30psi, you need to first match your spring to be close to your desired output, then the controller might have a fighting chance of holding what you set it at.

If that fails, you need to hold the gate shut using pressure to the top port on the gate. You would need to swap to a 4 or 5 port MAC valve to do this properly, simply cut the old solenoid out and solder the MAC in it's place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7234623
Share on other sites

It sounds like a boost control issue, otherwise you have all the parts to support what you want to do.

Obviously you should still check for leaks, but move to boost control if you cant find any leaks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440758-that-drop/#findComment-7234956
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...