Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK-quick run down:Near standard R32 GTR,uprated suspension,NOT a "daily driver",with 235 x 45 x 17"s.I'm after suggestions for a good trackday tyre.It's only gotta be road legal and not shred itself by 1,000 km's....Falken Azenis seem to keep popping up in discussion.I'm open to suggestion,except for cheap s**t that wont perform...Whadda you all think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44105-sticky-rubbermmmmmmm/
Share on other sites

I used to run the Azenis on one of the new Mini Cooper S's, and were looking to do the same with the GTR. Was talked into using the Toyo Proxes RA1's. These are unreal, some of the best tyres (on track) I have used. I haven't run dunlop R's yet (due to the cost) but these are litterly s**t to a blanket. Slightly more expensive than the Azenis, but seem to be a slightly softer compound and extremely good holding tyre. I think they will probably wear fairly fast, but worth it.

Awesome :D

RA 1s are a treadwear of 40 so dont expect too many kays:)

Dunlop RE55s are cheaper than proxes or azenis here in SA, $350 for 235/45/17 fitted - they stick well. They also have a very stiff sidewall which isnt a bad thing. Interestingly the 235s I have are slightly wider than my 8" rim, but the 255s (RE540s) I have on the rear are exactly the same size as my 9" rim. Next time I will be going 235 rear.

I am prettys sure the RE55s are used as a control tyre in targa tas too.

Bridgestone make the re55s they are great, I had the wet compound ones which did not last but apparently thye have a harder compound too. We get club discounts on them from Gordon Levin in sydney. These are the stickiest tyres I've driven on.

Next best are re540 bridgestones or dunlop formula r (DJ01). I haven't tried the Dz02J Dunlops yet but apparently they are great (our targa car ran these)

Other options are pirelli p zero corsa or michelin pilot sport cup if you are made of money.

the Falken rt215s I haven't tried yet, but falken also make these babies so I'd be very surprised if the rt215s are as good as the other r tyres here.

i_rs-v04.jpg

Tempe tyres have these for $200 ea in 245/45/17 perfect for a gtr

Anyway, that was a long rambling post.....any of those tyres will be an amazing step up from road tyres. They are noisey, average when cold, wear out quickly and tramline. But the grip is just from another world :D

Hi Duncan you left out Yokohama's, we use A032R's. Similar pricing to the Dunlops and Bridgestones, but they have slightly more tread pattern so you can use them in wet or dry. Gordie sells them too.

mmm....what do you think of the yokos? I found them a little less grippy than the D01Js and re55s but costed a little more :rofl: Although we did put down one spectacular .47 lap of Oran Park in a standard n1 gtr when they were brand new :rant:, every other lap was about 2 sec slower!

I know we have to use them in combined touring and improved production but I think there are better ones for less money....

Yep Duncan, spot on, the A032's are not quite as fast. Their advantage is they are useable in all conditons, the RE540's and D98's are only OK in the dry. So it really costs three times as much to run them as you have to have a set of wet tyres on rims as well. Not that wet is much of an issue in Sydney the last 12 months, although it peeed down at Sandown and Philip Island. :boohoo:

The bottom line for me is the total cost of them is the same as running full slicks that last longer and are much faster. So although, not perfect, the Yoko's are the best compromise for the limited budget. :uh-huh:

The Yokos A032s are more expensive then the newer A048s, despite ppl giving feedback that the A048s are a better tyre, i suppose the fact that A032s are the control tyre in certain classes means that they can charge what they want as ppl have to use them if they want to race.

When my current D01Js die ill try the A048s, they are $15 a corner cheaper then the Dunlops, and have already tried the Bridgestones so its time to try the Yokos.

I like the D01Js, very progressive tyre and pretty good grip levels. they lasted longer than i expected too, considering my frequent trackday usage.

I'm using the Falken Azenis RT215 now. It has a semi-slick type pattern, but the RT215 is a street compound tyre, not 'R' rubber. Not bad on track in the first 3 laps, but pretty hopeless after that as it overheats. Cornering performance pretty good for a street tyre as the tread has broad blocks. Good compromise for day to day and occasional trackday, but in my own experience, i'd say just go straight for 'R' rubber if your car won't see much street use and you don't want to buy another set of rims + tyres for trackdays & semi-slicks/slicks.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...