Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I have a 1996 R33 Series 2 which hates having the air con running! I have noticed that whenever it is on the car seems to miss on idle, kind of feels/sounds like it runs on three cylinders for a brief second. When the air con is off idle is perfect and I have no issues. Does anyone know what might be the cause of this? I had an ac idle up valve problem in my GT4 so am wondering if this might be the cause?

Any advice on what to investigate would be greatly appreciated :) I do have broken manifold stud bolts which are being taken care of this weekend but not sure if that is contributing in anyway.

Thanks

Em

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441117-why-does-my-r33-hate-air-con/
Share on other sites

My 34 hates having the air-con running too. For some reason it effects the way my clutch engages? makes it

very difficult to shift and I also get the odd effect on my idle too, only drops rpm slightly but you can feel it stumble through the whole car.

I haven't got a clue whats wrong with it. The aircon is super cold and it still revs out okay.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys! Cleaned the iac valve etc. Actually ran diagnostic codes and found out water temp sensor is faulty and for some reason the cold start valve wasnt even connected properly! Hopefully those things fixed will help at least! Haha weird isn't it re ur R34? Mine feels like it almost drops a cylinder occasionally on idle!

Hey Sparks, damn not yet! I actually cleaned my coolant temp sensor n the code went away- weird!! But it's still idling like ass now without air con :( haven't tried with air con tho! I assume worse lol. I did mess with the idle screw but it was shit before then. I'm wondering if throttle body or TPS maybe?

Hahaha ok well your Honda story makes me feel a bit better!

Sucks cos the car drives absolutely perfect otherwise :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...