Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car came with one of these when I bought it. Personally, I am not sure how exactly it's wired in, but my mirrors do not automatically fold in when the car is locked - not a massive issue as you can fold the mirrors in manually with a flick of a switch.

Does anyone know if this would be considered an Australian standard of immobilizers? If not, I'd need to change it in order to comply with my insurance too :\

I have one of these also; it was satisfactory for Shannons, but if in doubt, go & see a specialist like Carbon Car Systems. They have products for all budgets, & are absolutely no nonsense.
  • Like 1

or something like the mighty ducks where the car talks..

Viper Alarms have/had a model that did this, a booming voice would advise 'Viper system armed' or 'Step away from the vehicle' only issue is this is very entertaining for kids who would mess with/throw rocks at the car in order to get it to talk :rolleyes:.

I have also been thinking of alarms/immobilisers - sounds like alot of us are!

I rang carbon car systems after reading what members have suggested. I got quoted $520 installed a by a "auto parts store" for a basic sort of system.

Carbon quoted me the exact same system for $375 fitted. Even if i have to put $50 petrol in im still ahead.

Will be getting done by carbon for sure!

  • Like 1

Yep, this thread has inspired me to up the security on the stag. I think i will be contacting carbon very shortly. I'm thinking about getting a two way alarm so i can go kick the persons ass when they touch my car. the just aren't enough laser beams

Also the bonus of a more reliable door lock button is a big bonus. My key button sucks!!

Awesome news that your pride and joy is back. Get that security system fitted asap mate, all black wiring.

If you are feeling keen you can also install a GPS tracking module buried deep under the dash with internal battery backup.

Dont worry alex im sure many bowling clubs nowadays have CCTVs cameras to keep that murano of yours safe. Dont want those bowls hats or your disabled (from the neck up) parking permit to end up in the wrong hands!

God only knows what will happen!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...