Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a timing issue after a bit of help constructive criticism welcome

So recently just did water pump so I did a new timing belt at the same time as well as spark plugs

Got the timing light on I and its 30 degrees advanced but before that I drove it up the street and it spools like crazy and goes nowhere, obviously it's running retarded as hell, cas at full retarded gives me 25 degrees advanced so something is clearly wrong

By the way I've done timing belts before......

So took it all off to re check, and re did the belt incase i missed something,

All lines up properly on the crank pulley, and intake and exhaust cam marks all line up

Started it up again , sent photos of the timing belt marks to a mechanic who said all good

Sounds like a wrx and timing light says like 50 degrees advanced

......anyone got any ideas?

Also pulled the plug out and realised I got supplied rb25 plugs not rb20 so ill get rb20 sparkles in ASAP.

Got a spare cas ill try,

Obviously when cars under load the ecu is reading it knocking so its retarded the timing to keep it safe so I've got no power

But I should be able to get base timing right..?

Gonna check ecu codes ASAP too

Any ideas are appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/
Share on other sites

The loop socks for some reason.

To use coil pack just plug a lead onto it to the plug (from a different car) and click pickup onto it

Have heard guys just open pickup and put it on the top of coil pack.

When the tps is disconnected it goes to base idle, otherwise the ecu adjusts timing to maintain steady idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245144
Share on other sites

Disconnect the coil pack from the spark plug. Use a spark plug lead from another car to connect it to the plug.

Connect timing light to the lead.

A regular lead off a car with a distributor or an ls v8 will work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245168
Share on other sites

O.K to elaborate on the above, Plug the lead on the spark plug as you normally would with a plug lead. Now in the other end that would normally go on the coil/dizzy, put an appropriate size bolt in the coilpack and plug the lead into this (I put the head of the bolt in the coilpack)

Now I think you have to unplug the TPS or AAC to get it to sit on base idle so the timing remains constant. I cant remember this part yet but a google search should be able to find the answer (or search on here)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245211
Share on other sites

Matt, if the key is broken, the CAS can go back in any position, but there is only one position where the engine will even start.

Idle is basically controlled with fuel. Variations in timing at idle are likely caused by the map being moved to a different load/rpm cell. Timing doesn't vary by more than 1 degree at idle, in my experience.

Callan, WTF? You don't need bolts shoved up coil packs. You peel back the small rubber cap on the "dizzy" end of the plug lead (maybe even cut it off) and the lead becomes the spark plug for the coil. The other end of the lead slips onto the spark plug (as it would in a "dizzied" application). Then connect the timing light to the spark plug lead (note the pickup is directional).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245458
Share on other sites

Matt, if the key is broken, the CAS can go back in any position, but there is only one position where the engine will even start.

Idle is basically controlled with fuel. Variations in timing at idle are likely caused by the map being moved to a different load/rpm cell. Timing doesn't vary by more than 1 degree at idle, in my experience.

Not entirely true, I have seen cars with the CAS out by 1 tooth or so and they still start (obviously don't run well but still idled fine)

Also I have seen (My car) range between 0 and 15 degrees timing at idle. Caused when the base idle is set way too high and the ecu pulls timing to bring it down.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245491
Share on other sites

Callan, WTF? You don't need bolts shoved up coil packs. You peel back the small rubber cap on the "dizzy" end of the plug lead (maybe even cut it off) and the lead becomes the spark plug for the coil. The other end of the lead slips onto the spark plug (as it would in a "dizzied" application). Then connect the timing light to the spark plug lead (note the pickup is directional).

Its how I've always done it. 8mm bolt, head fits perfect in the boot and lead fits perfectly over the shank of the bolt.

Nothing has been wrecked and it always works. I don't see what the big issue is

obviously you dont use a 20mm bolt to do this, I'm sure I'm not the only one who uses a small bolt, after all I had to get the idea from somewhere

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245508
Share on other sites

My car (s2 stagea) definitely alters timing to maintain idle.

When tps is disconnected it runs 15.

Yeah my engine manual says you need to disconnect the 'throttle sensor connection' so need to unplug the TPS

I think I had the timing jumping around within a few degrees of 15 when I did this for the first time with either my stock ECU or Power FC. Didnt have the TPS unplugged

OP you can either put the idle down to 650rpm (Which I think is too low) or try it with the TPS unplugged at 750rpm. I dont recall ever having to many issues. AFAIK Disconnecting the TPS tricks the computer into thinking it shouldnt be in the idle map so it goes to default map. It's harder without a scan tool or something plugged into the car to confirm it is at the timing you want. But if you check the timing with a plug lead and timing light, with the TPS disconnected and its pretty steady, I'd say you will be fine.

Try it with the TPS plugged in as well for comparison if you want. FYI I think you have to unplug or plug in the TPS before starting the car. So need to turn off the car, unplug, start car, check timing. Not 100% sure but think there was something like that

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...