Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your idle is 1000 rpm with the tps disconnected then you need to adjust the idle down to 750 before checking the timing again as it may be slightly different.

As for sounding like a wrx, generally if it sounds like that then a cylinder isn't firing, from either lack of fuel or spark. Did you disconnect anything to do with fuel or ignition when you did the timing belt?

I checked it with a timing light the usual way man

I just forgot to buy a spark plug lead when I was at sprints buying the new plugs

And yeah mad082 your right, ill have to check the fsm to find out exactly the rpm I need

Misfire ended up being coilpack wiring so it idles so nicely now

yeah just checked the fsm it says 650

but your right thats very low

so it says 650 and 15 degrees +/- 2

so ill aim for 750 and 15 ish

if i get that right does that mean its set up properly now and should be fine to drive?

thanks for your help guys especially cal, helped with heaps lately

car might make matsuri now haha

What do u mean , you just said 650 ?

Ive set it at about 750- 800 now, idle is about 18 ish degrees advanced

Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load

Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code

Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load

Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code

What do you mean "under load"? The engine isn't really "under load" at idle.

You don't get a "knock" code if you have knock, you get a "knock" code if there is a problem with the knock sensors or circuitry.

  • Like 1

so i think being an old 89 gtst my ecu only has one diagnostic mode

self diagnostics? or real time...

which is giving me the all clear, code 55,

but going up the road, its still running majorly retarded and the exhaust temp light is flashing and so is the ecu light

its just flashing randomly, not any particular code or number or sequence..

does this mean the old ecus are real time or self diagnostic?

like, do i have to drive it to pick up ecu fault codes, or does it log the last 50 starts or whatever it is and remembers if it picked up a code or not

because its giving me no codes,... but still running with no power

cant find much info on it, there is only info on how to use the diagnostics, not whether its real time or self.

or whether there is different modes or not

just read this like straight after

http://performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67188185.html

single led ecus record last 50 starts and will flash error codes from the last 50 starts

so ive got no ecu codes

yet my ecu is still retarding the timing,

also i forgot to mention, i relocated the fuse box and moved the battery to the boot at the same time as this work. probably important, but nothing on the fuse box was cut

i might try resetting the ecu and see what that does because the leds shouldnt be flashing as im driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
×
×
  • Create New...