89CAL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 How did you manage to check it without a plug lead? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246147 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad082 Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 If your idle is 1000 rpm with the tps disconnected then you need to adjust the idle down to 750 before checking the timing again as it may be slightly different. As for sounding like a wrx, generally if it sounds like that then a cylinder isn't firing, from either lack of fuel or spark. Did you disconnect anything to do with fuel or ignition when you did the timing belt? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246172 Share on other sites More sharing options...
89CAL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Just in case, there is an earth lug from the coilpack loom (just behind Coilpack #6) that is pretty easy to leave off. I've lost track of how many times Ive done plugs and nearly left this off Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246191 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 I checked it with a timing light the usual way man I just forgot to buy a spark plug lead when I was at sprints buying the new plugs And yeah mad082 your right, ill have to check the fsm to find out exactly the rpm I need Misfire ended up being coilpack wiring so it idles so nicely now Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246197 Share on other sites More sharing options...
89CAL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 the spec is 650rpm, but thats to low for an RB25. I've never met anyone who thinks they should idle at 650 If yours as at 750rpm I would leave it there Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246207 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 yeah just checked the fsm it says 650 but your right thats very low so it says 650 and 15 degrees +/- 2 so ill aim for 750 and 15 ish if i get that right does that mean its set up properly now and should be fine to drive? thanks for your help guys especially cal, helped with heaps lately car might make matsuri now haha Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246225 Share on other sites More sharing options...
89CAL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 I dont recall ever having the idle that low to adjust it. but then again I set mine with a power FC and hand controller, so you can at least see what the timing is doing using that Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246226 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 What do u mean , you just said 650 ? Ive set it at about 750- 800 now, idle is about 18 ish degrees advanced Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246394 Share on other sites More sharing options...
89CAL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 The spec is 650rpm but I dont recall ever dropping the rpm that much to do it. But if all else fails I guess it couldn't hurt to drop it temporarily Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246461 Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind_elk Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code What do you mean "under load"? The engine isn't really "under load" at idle. You don't get a "knock" code if you have knock, you get a "knock" code if there is a problem with the knock sensors or circuitry. 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246501 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Driving And I know Usually the case is the wiring is faulty with the knock sensors, throwing a code Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246729 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 And yeah cal I couldn't even get it to 650 haha lowest was 750 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7246731 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 so i think being an old 89 gtst my ecu only has one diagnostic mode self diagnostics? or real time... which is giving me the all clear, code 55, but going up the road, its still running majorly retarded and the exhaust temp light is flashing and so is the ecu light its just flashing randomly, not any particular code or number or sequence.. does this mean the old ecus are real time or self diagnostic? like, do i have to drive it to pick up ecu fault codes, or does it log the last 50 starts or whatever it is and remembers if it picked up a code or not because its giving me no codes,... but still running with no power cant find much info on it, there is only info on how to use the diagnostics, not whether its real time or self. or whether there is different modes or not Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7247177 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 just read this like straight after http://performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67188185.html single led ecus record last 50 starts and will flash error codes from the last 50 starts so ive got no ecu codes yet my ecu is still retarding the timing, also i forgot to mention, i relocated the fuse box and moved the battery to the boot at the same time as this work. probably important, but nothing on the fuse box was cut i might try resetting the ecu and see what that does because the leds shouldnt be flashing as im driving. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7247183 Share on other sites More sharing options...
89CAL Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Did you leave an Earth off somewhere? I know alot of strange problems caused by bad Earths Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7247283 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 Yeah I was told that too, I'll double check but there's not that many earths to be connected Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7247411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Earths all good, there's only one that needs connecting anyway And 2 from the headlights I suppose Reset ecu Unplugged knock sensors Still the same Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7248031 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean133 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Bypassed knock sensors with resisters and ran th same Took off fuel filter as I replaced that at the same time too, and thought it could be restricting it Still the same Checking fuel pump next Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/page/3/#findComment-7249362 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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