Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I'm new on this forum, hope starting this topic in right place :)

I recently cleaned throttle body and intake collector. doing this I accidentaly made puncture on EGR temp sensor's coolant hose. I found it out later, drove for one day :( I fixed the puncture, but check engine came out . I scanned my car at local dealer's shop, p1401 faulty code "EGR Temp sen/circ" came out. I tried to reset ECU, but did not solved my problem, after 3-4 km driving check engine is coming again.

Is there any chance to fix it?

You damaged the temp sensor. No big deal, you ca either replace the sensor or trick the ecu into thinking it is still in the circuit with a similar resistance soldered over it's wires.

Before you go further, can you make sure the temp sensor is plugged in properly? It's behind the plenum and throttle, thin white wire.

  • Like 1

You damaged the temp sensor. No big deal, you ca either replace the sensor or trick the ecu into thinking it is still in the circuit with a similar resistance soldered over it's wires.

Before you go further, can you make sure the temp sensor is plugged in properly? It's behind the plenum and throttle, thin white wire.

maybe is's overheated because of coolant leakage :( I know it is not big deal, I hate this sensor, it makes intake collector dirty :)

I checked it and connection is ok. How can I trick the ECU? which exact tips to solder?

Did you block the egr? If so you will need to put a resistor over the temp probe to get rid of the MIL.

Otherwise something is wrong with the temp sensor or the wires that connect it to the ecu. Did you forget to plug the temp sensor back in?

If I may, i have one more question:

My friend's 2005 250gt has problems with RPM, they are unstable. We resetted ecu several times and made idle air flow learning. Sometimes when he drives and turns gear to N rpms goes up to 1200-1500 and after switching to D gearbox is kicking hard :(

we checked on scanner and there are no ongoing faulty codes.

What can be the cause of this jumping rpms?

Edited by geoskyline

Did someone clean the throttle? Check all the vac lines are connected and not leaking.

You will probably need to do a throttle re-learn.

Did someone clean the throttle? Check all the vac lines are connected and not leaking.

You will probably need to do a throttle re-learn.

nope, nobody has done throttle body clean. I know what you mean, but this RPM jumping occurs occasionally, not always.

Something is letting excess air into the plenum occasionally, perhaps the egr valve is sticking open due to crud?

obviously the problem is mechanical not electrical. If problem would be electrical it should cam up on scanner :(

when my friend bought the car he fixed the loosen chain. is it possible mechanic did not fixed it properly, as i know chain has a mark points to sync it to engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...