Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,


Stripping a R32 GTR which has been involved in an accident

Body is no good, other than that its a complete car!


Some parts to look out for are:

- R34 GTR Vspec II engine, custom 9L sump setup

- Nistune R32 to R34 ECU

- Tomei cluster

- Bilstein suspension

- ORC twin plate

These may not be listed as part is still to come off


ALL prices are nego.



All prices, pictures and information here.

Will continually update link above


Any other questions or parts you are after just PM me


Cheers

Link seems to be working for some, not for others. Im using IE, maybe try another browser otherwise PM me your number and I can send

Prices, description all in link. Click the picture!!!

Is the car Jet Silver or Spark Silver?

Is it 1989-1991 or 1992-1994? That will tell me.....

Where abouts are you?

Thanks......

Yes apparently aftermarket dumps and fronts, Apexi N1 exhaust

Stock manifold and turbos

Not sure on the colour.. is it a code? Its silver haha

Will let you know about year of car

Im in Perth WA

Ok...... Thanks for that.

Mine is Sparkling Silver which was introduced after August 1991.

Jet Silver was the original Silver from August 1989 till August 1991.

Cheers,

Bob.



New parts added:

- N1 pods and skirts

- Cusco MBC stopper

- Passenger door trims (and other assorted trims and rubbers)

- Radiator silicone hose

- GTR bonnet

- Brake ducts


**Click on pictures for description and pricing**



New items added 30-04-14

- Exhaust, looks japanese brand, 3" with mid muffler and end muffler, some dents in mufflers - $350

- Bilstein suspension, front drivers damaged, rest are very good condition - $200

- Adjustable camber arms, good condition - $200

- HICAS bar, good condition - $200


Price reduction time! Also open to offers on parts

- Stock passenger seat with rail - $200 (was $250)

- Velo seat on s13 rail (apparently) - $450 (was $600)

- GTR boot - $150 (was $200)

- GTR wing - $130 (was $180)

- Tailights - $70ea (was $100)

- Rear wiper and assembly - $30 (was $50)

- GTR 3 gauge cluster - $100 (was $150)

- Headlights - $70ea (was $100)

- ARC box - $300 (was $350)

- GTR radiator and cap - $100 (was $150)

- R34 GTR Vspec engine - $6800 (was $7500)

- N1 front bar and lip - $400 (was $450)

- N1 side skirts - $400 (was $450)

- GTR bonnet - $400 (was $450)

OK any more details on the dumps, front and N1? Or is it the jap 3" you've listed after this post?

I'm looking for something a little bigger preferably.

Yes apparently aftermarket dumps and fronts, Apexi N1 exhaust

Stock manifold and turbos

Not sure on the colour.. is it a code? Its silver haha

Will let you know about year of car

Im in Perth WA

Dumps look stock, but front pipe is 3" RSR stainless steel items

The exhaust is actually around 3.5", but tapers down to 3" when it meets with muffler/flanges

I have the electric window switch, yes it was working

$40 posted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...