Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

True that

Very sexual wheels, good price I wouldn't go any lower. They may just take some time to sell in this age of cheapskates and their love of fake wheels :( tax return season is right around the corner

Glws

You can pay $1000 a set new for shite and knock-offs or $1000 a rim for cream

Suppose it depends what you do with your ride, what you can afford and what you value

At the end of the day it shows

Bought and sold a lot of top quality kit on SAU (see feedback). Every single sale has been smooth and a pleasure until this one.

Most of the guys I have traded with I still speak with semi regularly in the background.

It's about asking for and paying a fair price, selling good quality kit, being honest, packing it well, paying for it quickly and make certain buyer/seller is pleased after the deal is done.

Congrats to the new owner of these Rims. A real bargain and I'm certain he'll be extremely happy.

Thanks Paul, Patience? :P

Being stuffed around several times in the back ground with extreme low ballers & deal breakers over the week got to me late last night.

Hadn't experienced that degree of it on SAU before.

aka Grumpy32

:rant: I need a drink and chill

Seems they will be picked up tomorrow evening

True that

You can pay $1000 a set new for shite and knock-offs or $1000 a rim for cream

Suppose it depends what you do with your ride, what you can afford and what you value

At the end of the day it shows

Bought and sold a lot of top quality kit on SAU (see feedback). Every single sale has been smooth and a pleasure until this one.

Most of the guys I have traded with I still speak with semi regularly in the background.

It's about asking for and paying a fair price, selling good quality kit, being honest, packing it well, paying for it quickly and make certain buyer/seller is pleased after the deal is done.

Congrats to the new owner of these Rims. A real bargain and I'm certain he'll be extremely happy.

Never a truer word spoken, take a deposit and keep it if the rest doesn't come thru. Saves some of the heartache

Wow, lowballed even further? my eyeballs came out of my head when i saw the price on these, if i hadn't bought my RE30's and these came up, would have bought it straight away. Sorry to hear you've got time wasters =\ Didn't think it'd happen on SAU xD usually happens on Ozhonda and JDMST LOOOL.

GLWS!

...been told that 2, possibly 3 ppl on evolutionoz would love to have these, but I refuse to go on that forum.

It's so refreshing to find ppl who know how to carry out a clean business transaction these days - probably because they're interspersed with sh!t.

SOLD, paid for and picked-up.

Unfortunately an earlier buyer came through first with cash prior to Chris.

So my time came up to apologise. Appreciate your understanding mate.

:cheers:

Cheers

Richard

Tried to pm you but was unable. Can you send me some pics please

If you've missed out (and I think you have), I know where there's a set of these available - also Face 2 for GT-Rs - but gold.

Matthew-2.jpg

PM God_speed if interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...