Jump to content
SAU Community

Ap Racing Rear Bbk, 550Cc Injectors

Anti
 Share

Recommended Posts

Anti Enthusiast

Anti

Posted
Posted
i'm going to need some bigger injectors on my new motor so these are up for grabs.


they are JECS 550cc units, flow tested and cleaned less than 1,000 KM ago. they came out sweet and ran perfectly. one of them has a small crack on the top cap but doesn't effect their functionality.


IMG_1848_zps571c1361.jpg


IMG_1849_zpsb81233c9.jpg


$500 ONO


IMG_1668_zps5e885df5.jpg


IMG_1667_zpsc0560e68.jpg


next up, for brand preference and continuity reasons alone I'm selling my recently purchased AP racing rear big brake kit. it includes:


- 4 piston rear calipers

- Pads with good meat

- Stoptech two piece rotors with good meat (~330mm)

- Dogbones to bolt straight up

- Braided rear brake lines


this is a true straight bolt on kit (takes about an hour, plus bleeding) and a serious performer for those who take their brakes seriously. if you've got a current front BBK these will match up well. alternatively, a savvy buyer could match them to this 6 piston front brake kit and have a race car level braking system for less than 3k. my knowledge regarding fitting these across the Skyline generations is limited but as the GTR brembo set up is a direct bolt on for the Z32 I'd imagine there won't be much in the way of issues.


caliper are currently split in half for a clean up/reseal (good preventative measure I was doing) but I can reassemble them on request. one dust boot has a small split.


asking what I paid, $1000 + post.


coming up soon - few AFM's.


-A

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Duncan
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • Duncan
      Arm ball joint

      By Duncan · Posted

      No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • Duncan
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The price isn't the issue, it's how hard my fuel pump is to remove now. I fabricated a custom bracket so my pump sits on the very bottom of the tank (I ran the tank down to 5L remaining to test it, works well). But it is a fkn NIGHTMARE to get the pump down into the tank now =/ words can't describe how much I hate fighting with the fuel pump/hanger now. The other issue is reliability, I'm driving down for WTA in a couple of months, I'd be less then impressed if I was half way to Sydney from Brisbane and my pump fails again =/ The other issue I had was my car battery was slowly failing, with low battery voltage my fuel pump couldn't keep up with what the reg was asking from it. I've replaced the battery and my fuel pressure is back to being perfect.  As for the low voltage situation that killed my previous battery, I've got a 150amp alternator sitting on my desk waiting to go in. Fingers crossed that will sort that issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...